Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey again,

Over the past couple of weeks, while surfing the net, I’ve seen numerous amounts of people asking about yellow headlights and how to restore them to factory fresh. I’ve even seen as far as people setting up group buys for $150+.

Now this really annoys me, as it’s a very simple process to do. Then you get people saying it’s really bad when they turn on their lights, so quickly come to the assumption it’s inside of the headlight. I guarantee 99% of the time it’s just on the outer surface.

This guide offers you guys a simple, cheap (talking about less than $10 here) yet equally effective solution. I’m talking no buffers, no special chemicals, no tricks.

Now, for those who don’t know, here’s a low down on why headlights turn yellow. It’s plastic! Simple. Like any plastic, as it ages the clarity disappears.

This really only happens on R33 and R34 Skyline’s due to the plastic housing headlight, unlike the R32 which is made of glass. Hence, this tut applies to all R33 and R34 Skylines.

Right:

Tools needed:

-Wet Sandpaper / Automotive sandpaper. You can pick this up at your local hardware store or auto paint supplier. You’ll need 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Just one of each will be more than sufficient.

-Car wax. (Just any reputable brand should do, or any you have lying around your house)

-Masking tape

-2x Pieces of cloth, preferably something not rough.

-Strong buffing arm

Step 1: Sandpaper / Preparation

Start by ripping considerable pieces of same paper (of each grit) and let them soak in a bucket of water for a good 20 minutes.

sandinghq3.th.jpg

Whilst the sandpaper is softening now’s a good time to mask of the car. Now this is a very important part as you want to mask off nay part you don’t wish to sand. You can never be too careful or use too much masking tape.

HINT: Instead of masking your bonnet, have it open all the time, that way you can save time and don’t F*ck it up.

maskingmj0.th.jpg

Step 2: Initial sanding

Start with the highest grit 1000 and start sanding the headlight. You should sand the headlight for a good 3-4 minutes on each grit. Now do you see the yellow particles you’re sanding off, yep that’s a good sign not just an illusion.

NOTE: When sanding you should only be sanding in one direction, i.e. left – right or up – down. This prevent swirls and deeper scratches.

Also while sanding always keep the sandpaper constantly wet to prevent clogging.

When finished, give it a wipe with some tissues. It should look like this a very dull finish.

dullfinish1bh0.th.jpg

Now your probably thinking at this stage “What the F have I done, it’s ruined. I’m going to kill that Chang guy” No no, don’t worry it’s all part of the process. Just keep reading.

Step 3: More sanding

Now after using 1000 grit slowly progress down, 1200, 1500, 2000 till it looks like (After final 2000 grit)

dullfinish2zn3.th.jpg

dullfinish3tg9.th.jpg

Step 4: Polishing

Now I’m sure like me, majority of you don’t have any special chemicals or buffers. Too expensive, too difficult, too lazy, too can’t be f’d

Anyway, get your polish that you’ve got and polish it like you would a car. But really get into in. I mean rub it hard. Use a lot of elbow grease.

polishjk1.th.jpg

Till it looks like this

after4uk1.th.jpg

NOTE: You should be polishing in a circular motion, as opposed to the sanding technique.

Use the second cloth to wipe away the wax as per normal. You should be waxing until you can’t feel your hand or about to pass out.

  • Like 1

good tut, I use plastic polish to the same affect, the problem I now have it that after sanding/polishing, we have taken off the UV protective coating so it will yellow and craze again faster. I'm yet to find a way to recoat them other that those 'skinz' which are clean and UV protective, but they cost a small fortune lol.

Finished product:

See your done four easy steps to restoring your headlights. Now before you tackle this, you should like me and take photos. It not only till you compare the before and after do you see the difference.

Before:

before1yq1.th.jpg

After:

after4uk1.th.jpg

Before:

before4ea4.th.jpg

After:

after9wa5.th.jpg

Before:

before8lu2.th.jpg

before8lu2.th.jpg

After:

after7ra0.th.jpg

after12zc2.th.jpg

after14ov2.th.jpg

Now you’re done. See, under $10 and you saved a considerable amount for your other mods. Although your arms have lost feeling by now, it’s well worth it. Don’t you agree?

It's sort of hard to depict the yellowness in photos. My headlights weren't as terrible as some out there but enough to see a yellow tinge.

None of the left unfortunately, as I thought the right one was worse and show a better before and after.

Edited by Chang

a great writeup,

meguiars plastic x will clear up the lenses a bit better then the deep crystal polish, but either will make a good noticable difference. The sanding is well worth the effort to smooth off the dulling caused by grit in the air whilst driving

alex

  • 2 weeks later...

so i had a crack at it today, used meguiars plastiX & scratch X didnt really do much as i used it before and got alot off but headlight is still yellow (which im pretty sure is all in the inside now)

so gonna have to open up the headlight and do the same for the inside.

i used a orbital buffer/polisher as well.

good write up tho & applies to ppls headlights with slight yellowing/fogging.

keep rubbing and rubbing till no more yellow crap comes out on the rag, if headlights are still yellow then its all in the inside. thats how u can tell wehther its in or out

Edited by dori32

u ill probably find that ur headlights will go back to yellow after a short amount of time coz mine did wen i sanded n waxed them. there is a product i bought from the auto salon that i used on mine and it worked mint andthey r still perfectly clear. its called GLASSYLITE not sure where to get it but if u googe it u would find it. it cost me $20 and my lights hav been perfect for like a year now and it actually seals the lights so they dont go yellow again.

Hi Chang

Dude, thank you so much for this write up! I followed the instructions, except i used meguiars plastx to polish the lenses instead of normal polish. It looks brand new, simply amazing. Altogether it cost me $27 for plastx ,$5 for sand paper and $2.50 for polishing cloth!! Job took 1 hour, my arms also look like Arnold Swarzenegger's now!!

there is so much you can do before you realise its actually the inside that needs to be polished up, then you will have to take it to a specialist to open it up and clean it.

Yeah whatever!! Mine looks brand new, i'm happy. Specialist.....pfft!

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Chang

Dude, thank you so much for this write up! I followed the instructions, except i used meguiars plastx to polish the lenses instead of normal polish. It looks brand new, simply amazing. Altogether it cost me $27 for plastx ,$5 for sand paper and $2.50 for polishing cloth!! Job took 1 hour, my arms also look like Arnold Swarzenegger's now!!

You better keep working out cause in 3 months you will be at it all over again... you have just successfully damaged your lights, wasted money time and energy. save yourself seal em with glassylite now!

Oh forgot about this thread.

Hi Chang

Dude, thank you so much for this write up! I followed the instructions, except i used meguiars plastx to polish the lenses instead of normal polish. It looks brand new, simply amazing. Altogether it cost me $27 for plastx ,$5 for sand paper and $2.50 for polishing cloth!! Job took 1 hour, my arms also look like Arnold Swarzenegger's now!!

Your welcome mate, glad I could help.

You better keep working out cause in 3 months you will be at it all over again... you have just successfully damaged your lights, wasted money time and energy. save yourself seal em with glassylite now!

Dude, what crawled up your ass. My headlights have been out in the Summer for 2 months now. Still looking as new as ever.

A regular polish then wax will keep it going.

Keep your negitave comments to yourself.

I like to use Novus plastic polish ! Realy easy to use you can check it out on youtube ! the full 3set kit costs about 15$usd on ebay !

http://www.novuspolish.com/

I also did my r33 headlights using this guide I googled up hope this helps some one out !

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/headlights/index.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...