Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Need to do an INTERIOR STEAM CLEANING for my car, left of a bottle of milk inside the car for few nights and there was some milk leak out as well....now...smelly inside.. :laugh: , does anyone knows any contacts for doing this in Sydney? THANKS in advance and MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

cheers

Brian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250074-need-interior-steam-cleaning/
Share on other sites

I don't know what area your from, but if your prepared to go to the Northern Beaches, I can highly recommend this guy.

He did a full detail on my car and did a great job.

A & M Hamadache

Vehicle Detailing

17 Sydenham Rd

Brookvale 2100

Ph: 9905 0690

Mob:0412 029 666

I was reccomended to a guy a few years back, have been using him ever since - John 0412 431 469 he's mobile too so he can come to your place usually whenever if you give enough notice.

I just get him to do interior as i do the rest myself but he does the works - inside outside engine bay etc. for those who are less motivated !

has anyone actually had success in getting the factory (r34) seats to look clean? I paid $80 extra to 'drdetail' just for interior clean when he was detailing my 34 and the interior is just as dirty as before once the seats dried

It's mainly the 2 front seats I'm trying to get cleaned .. the middle light grey section. Obviously after 10 years it's absorbed all sorts of crap. I'm wondering if it's even possible to clean this sort of crap and give it a factory clean look.

Ps. after you get stuff cleaned out if there are still any bad odours, get an ozone lamp and stick in the car and leave for half an hour, it will kill the source of the smell. Ozone lamps are used in all clubs/pubs etc to kill the stench of smoke and all the other crap.. you can usually get them from hydroponics stores (pot growers find it handy as it eliminates the stench of weed that you're growing in your garage)

I had my drivers seat cleaned (thankfully passenger seat still looks like new), and it certainly helped but it does not look factory clean.

I would doubt this is possible (for the grey middle section) after 10 years of dirt and crap built up, as mine was pretty dirty.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...