Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My RB20 has been throwing out fault code 13: temp sensor, so ive replaced the sensor but it still throws the code out, i have got ground and 9v feed from ECU?

any ideas what else to do?

cars running rch as, O2 is sayn lean, so ecus pumpn more fuel in, temp sensors not readn proper temp, car drives like crap hit boost and it bogs down no power, and it spluters and crap

post away and ideas or past problems you guys have had.

Thanks Damo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250165-rb20det-fault-code-13/
Share on other sites

with the temp sensor not working, the ecu will be stuck in cold temp corrrection, thats is, retard mode

so until you fix that, theres not point loading it up or bring it on boost, in fact, its probably doing harm as the correction is sucky

there are two sensors for water, one for the cluster and one for the ecu, i would suggest replacing both with known working items

the ecu doesnt pump more or less fuel in based on the 02 sensor in real time, its a minute correction on light cruise

so be seeing rich or lean from the ecu diag, means nothing, provides nothing useful and will just add confusion or misleading information

fix the water temp sensor, your problems will go away

the part should be a generic nissan item from most auto workshops, undo the item, take it into the shop

and ask for a replacement one basicaly. my r33 rb25 has an 180sx water temp sensor it and it works fine

ie: its a generic nissan part, not an RBxx model specific one so you can mix match providing plug and voltage/scale is the same

Yeh i have replaced the sensor but still no deal, Code 13 is temp sensor or wiring circuit fault.

But i have checked theses earth and a volt reading, but the volt reading from ECU is higher then it should be, should be around 5volts but im getn a reading of around 9volts i think.

Im going to wiring up a better earth and hope that fixs it, but other then that im stumd, cant be ecu fault surely workd fine on old engine.

next step is taking it to a shop some day.

My 20 is still giving me tha sh!ts, looking for another RB20DET ECU, any one got one for sale.

only thing left i xcan think of to try and fix this Temp sensor fault, replaced sensor, check loom eveythings works out within specs, exspect for 9volt output when it should have 5volt, so ecu might be fokd

Yeh i have replaced the sensor but still no deal, Code 13 is temp sensor or wiring circuit fault.

But i have checked theses earth and a volt reading, but the volt reading from ECU is higher then it should be, should be around 5volts but im getn a reading of around 9volts i think.

Im going to wiring up a better earth and hope that fixs it, but other then that im stumd, cant be ecu fault surely workd fine on old engine.

next step is taking it to a shop some day.

you sure u replaced the ecu sensor, it has 2 wires goin to it.

Yeh replaced tha right sensor,

also cleared code using snapon scanner, just relogs striaght away,

swaped ecus but used a ceffy one, can drove good, bit rich but boosted normel, only thing is got told cant used other ecus need to match what loom and sensors you got?

ive been running a r32 ecu coz im sure i got a r32 loom, does any one no how to tell the looms apart?

also after a R32 ECU?

Thanks Damo

All fixed, tonight i ended up running to new wires from CTS in tho cabin and cut old wires from ECU and joined new ones in, No more temp sensor faults, so must had a bad wire, or broken wire,

Hope the fault says away now.

Thanks for your help

Damo

with the temp sensor not working, the ecu will be stuck in cold temp corrrection, thats is, retard mode

so until you fix that, theres not point loading it up or bring it on boost, in fact, its probably doing harm as the correction is sucky

there are two sensors for water, one for the cluster and one for the ecu, i would suggest replacing both with known working items

the ecu doesnt pump more or less fuel in based on the 02 sensor in real time, its a minute correction on light cruise

so be seeing rich or lean from the ecu diag, means nothing, provides nothing useful and will just add confusion or misleading information

fix the water temp sensor, your problems will go away

the part should be a generic nissan item from most auto workshops, undo the item, take it into the shop

and ask for a replacement one basicaly. my r33 rb25 has an 180sx water temp sensor it and it works fine

ie: its a generic nissan part, not an RBxx model specific one so you can mix match providing plug and voltage/scale is the same

Not strictly true.. My RB20 and my mates RB26 head had yellow sensors. When I built my 30 I accidentally snapped my RB20 temp sensor so had to use the BROWN temp sensor that came with my RB25DE head.. ecu thought it was in cold start ALL THE TIME until I put my mates yellow RB26 sensor in there..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...