Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, the below table are the SPEC for the RB25DE, I have an auto NA 34 and would like to get some idea of the best, economical ways of getting about 150km at the wheels, open to suggestion and if possible please list the mod, cost and the installation cost. :thumbsup:

EngineModelRB25DETypeWater cooling DOHCDisplacement, cc2498TurboNoCylindersSerial 6, 24 ValveMax Horsepower, hp / rpm200 / 6000Max Torque, Nm / rpm255.0 / 4000Fuel SystemEGI (Electronic Gasoline Injection)Fuel TypeGasolineCompression Ratio10.0Bore * Stroke, mm86 x 71.7Fuel Consumption, l/100km9.4

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/
Share on other sites

If it has to be kept N/A do the following

RB30 bottom end

Cams/Headwork

Decked block to bring compression to 10.5:1 (or through piston selection)

Aftermarket ECU

2.5" Exhaust with highflow cat converters

Install and fabrication costs will vary from shop to shop, but $8K should see a very reliable and well built setup that loves to rev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/#findComment-4337531
Share on other sites

150rwkw/200rwhp out of an RB25DE is going to cost you.

Machine work (porting will have to be done and getting the compression up, 10.5:1 probably won't cut it, you should be trying for 11:1 - 11.5:1 for 2.5lt and costs for big cams also)

About - $4000

Aftermarket ECU - Min $1000 then to wire in and tune another $1000

Decent Extractors - $1000

Labour - min $1000

Cams and springs - $1500

Oil an water pumps - $500

Exhaust piping - $750

Lightened Flywheel and new clutch - $1000

So about 11G should net a figure around 150rwkw probably 160 - 170rwkw, but in saying that people would say you spent all that money and get such a tiny power figure, but really that setup would be good for a mid - high 12 to low 13 sec quarter pass which isn't slow for an N/a

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/#findComment-4338468
Share on other sites

that setup would be good for a mid - high 12 to low 13 sec quarter pass which isn't slow for an N/a

12 second quarters would be asking way, way too much from 160rwkw on a 34. My mate has a Del Sol CRX (non turbo worked to the shit) with 171rwkw and he cuts 12.1 sec quarters, and his car is light as shit compared to the weight of a 34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/#findComment-4339214
Share on other sites

150rwkw/200rwhp out of an RB25DE is going to cost you.

Machine work (porting will have to be done and getting the compression up, 10.5:1 probably won't cut it, you should be trying for 11:1 - 11.5:1 for 2.5lt and costs for big cams also)

About - $4000

Aftermarket ECU - Min $1000 then to wire in and tune another $1000

Decent Extractors - $1000

Labour - min $1000

Cams and springs - $1500

Oil an water pumps - $500

Exhaust piping - $750

Lightened Flywheel and new clutch - $1000

So about 11G should net a figure around 150rwkw probably 160 - 170rwkw, but in saying that people would say you spent all that money and get such a tiny power figure, but really that setup would be good for a mid - high 12 to low 13 sec quarter pass which isn't slow for an N/a

Wow that is a shit load, you might aswell sell and get a GTT, and even with money remaining, do some supporting mods and hit some good figures i guess!

MRXTCZ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/#findComment-4340228
Share on other sites

no they are not the same. RB25DE = high compression RB25DET = low compression. The low compression is made up for by boost via the turbo.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...l&p=4306941

Simply bolting on a turbo to the RB25DE will not run properly and kill it very quickly. An RB25DE+t can be done though with the right parts, the right engine management that can handle fuel and ignition timing, and good tuning, and of course supporting mods such as fuel pump and injectors to meet the new demands, and of course keeping the boost level at a safe limit.

The hardest part is going to be whether you can do the labour, or paying a workshop to do it, and of course finding a workshop who will not only do the labour but will be willing to tune it. A fair few workshops refused to do it, or refused to tune such a set up. If you do it, make sure the tuner is confident with it.

I think it will be wise for you to have a read through the How To Turbo N/A Skyline thread. What I said above is a very very condensed version. It will also be good to look at the differences between an RB25DE and RB25DET engine.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tu...N-A-t33407.html

In regards to an LS1, this has been done on a number of S13's and a quick google shows that there's R34's that have had the LS1 treatment. There was a 320kw LS1 powered S13 in HPI Magazine issue 83.

Could always do a twin turbo LS1 :(

http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=61035

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Nissan-...1-V8_169208.htm

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Nissan-...-with_95344.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250316-na-tune/#findComment-4341022
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...