Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Rear Speaker Install...

Jay_R33

By Jay_R33,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jay_R33 Community Regular

Jay_R33

Posted
Posted

Ok...ive searched and searched in the DYI section and the audio section and even using the search button but so far couldnt find what i was looking for...pretty much found the rear speaker install for a R32 which i figured would be right for me...can anyone please give me some tips or anything on how to install new rear speakers...cuz its a bitch of a job especially with the battery there.

any help would be perfect?

thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/250796-r33-rear-speaker-install/
Share on other sites
MATT_R33 Enthusiast

MATT_R33

Posted
Posted

mate you need to take out the rear seat first which then allows you to take out the rear parcel shelf which is held down by little clips that you get to from your boot just above the battery. you turn these sideways so that they are clipped in anymore, and then try and pull out the rear shelf without damaging it. you will then see your rear speakers screwed into the standard plastic pods on the metal rear shelf. with a little stubby 10mm spanner or a little 1/4" socket set you should be able to undo the little bolts that hold the pods in and then just unplug the wires.

with the rear seat you undo the 2 bolts that are visible for the bottom half, then just above these bolts there is a clip on either side that hold the seat down. if you shove your hands underneath and feel for these just pull up hard with your hands on either side and they should come out or use a big screwdriver and lever them out or soemthing. the for the back half of the seat there is a 10mm bold at the bottom right and bottom left(make sure you dont loose the little nut that just kind of sits there) for these bolts to bolt into. then lift up and your done :D

skyline2485 Explorer

skyline2485

Posted
Posted
lol ur saving me bro, yeah will give it a crack lol hope it is easy to put the seat back in lol cheers mate

yeah i figured this out after cracking one of the rear speaker covers. anyone know anywhere i can get a new one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...