Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im not sure. The only thing he said was something about the ECU going back to the battery and not the alternator. The only problem i have is if i winge too much he could easily change a few figures in the ecu and either detune it, or make it a time bomb waiting to happen. I think this time as times in the past when i have been burnt by workshops is to just pay it and never go there again.

Here is the dyno sheets that $1000 of tuning got me.

And it's only running 12psi. They said they pushed the boost up but it didn't make much more power. Does this sound like B/S? The engine has forgies in it and the turbo is bigger than stock with a steel wheel. I have pushed it to 16 psi and it felt like it had much more power than 12psi. And i dont know where they pulled the 168.9kw run out off. it was making 200kw when i got there... The usuall tricks to make the figures look better. So please people that see dyno sheets all the time please tell me what you think about these.

best to list the parts you've got in there and what tune you're running on.

It's one of those things where I think the workshop will be able to justify the bill because of the amount of time spent on your car. But that's why the advice has been to take it to another workshop, because these guys may lack the experience. It could be that they took 5 hours to find a problem that would take another workshop 1 hour. So best to part ways me thinks.

Yea i will NEVER EVER go back to these muppets. I do understand that time is money and yea they could justify there time and the cost. The thing that has pissed me off the most is there was no communication!!! They kept telling me that they will look after me and that it wont cost much at all.

The mods are FMIC, electronic boost controller, turbo has been rebuilt and made bigger and a steel wheel. I think it's rated at 450hp now. bigger fuel pump, haltech interceptor. engine rebuilt with forgies.

Well i paid the bill and picked up the car. So pissed off at the company. But i have to admit the car does run well. Not $2200 worth but it is good. And i found out that dyno time was charged at around $235 and hour

So $235 per hr and they couldnt even find that it had a bad earth proplem???

Do any of you boy's/girl's get pre dyno check's done before your tune???

We do battery, power to coil, power to fuel pump and fuel flow/pressure check's before every run and add it into the bill.

Best to sort these issue's out before you waste 20-30min's to strap it down and end up with no result.

Bet there isnt a person on this site who would not have wasted days trying to find that problem. How many people who have a car that suddenly drops 150kw have a first thorght of "I wonder if the the battery terminal did it"???? The guy probably didnt charge you for half the time he wasted on it trying to diagnose someones else's substandard work. Dont forget that you now have a car that is running sweet and has had everthing on it checked and double checked. Regardless of wether you planned to spent that money or not its not wasted!! Another point to remember is if you change workshops now there is a real good chance that the first time you have a problem your NEW!! workshop will be charging you AGAIN!! to check things that you just paid this guy to do. He on the other hand will be know your car very well. No I do not have a workshop and dont know the car or the workshop from this thread. Just my two cents on a subject where it seems that most of the advise given to you is based on other people knowing everthing and your mechanic supposedly knowing nothing. Niether of these two things are true so try not to judge too unfairly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...