Jump to content
SAU Community

New Clutch For R34 Gt-r

xanavinismo
 Share

Recommended Posts

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted (edited)
Do you have the bigger Nismo slave cylinder?

You dont need to use a Nismo slave cylinder.

I just whacked on a Nismo Super Coppermix Twin on my car and so far it's been a very positive upgrade. I'm surprised at how easy it is to control. I thought it would be more like a button type clutch which I've used before and gave me the shits in traffic. It grabs / bites harder than the stock clutch but still feels easy to handle. And you can definitely launch better and quicker than stock unit. I dig the rattling sound, it makes the car feel more raw and tough!

Edited by mxfly
mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted

I'll answer your questions.

Thanks for your reply. I do have some follow up questions:

1) How long have you had the NISMO twin plate clutch for? I ask this because I am wondering approx. how long this particular clutch lasts? (Obviously depending on driving..) A clutch can last you years, just depending on how hard to use it.

2) Did you have to replace anything else when you swapped over to the nismo clutch? ie - thrust bearings, pivot forks etc??? New thrust bearing is provided with the kit.

3) So your nismo clutch does allow a little bit of slip? ie - not like your either on or off? There's slip so it's easier to ride it. But there's also enough bite as well.

4) Is the pedal feeling a lot heavier than stock? Does feels heavier than stock but it's not that bad.

5) If you were to sum it up, would you say that the nismo twin plate is easy to drive? 1000%!

6) Finally would you recomend getting the NISMO big operating slave cylinder? Using a Nismo cylinder would make it feel like stock. In fact it feels lighter than stock when i tried it out on another car.

  • 4 months later...
boostED82 Collaborator

boostED82

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I'm about to fork out and upgrade my clutch. I'm leaning towards the Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate kit (640ps), however I've been advised by some that there have been reliabilty issues in them slipping at lower power levels? Can anyone comment?

Also, Sliding Performance stock these:

ORC Single Plate clutch kit ORC 409D-01N (400ps) (Includes flywheel), $1489

, which are a single plate option (assuming also for GTR application) including light weight flywheel and are half the cost of a twin plate kit. Has anybody had experience with these ORC single plate kits (or any other) single plate clutch kits on an R34 GTR? Pro's and con's?

I'll be running approx. 360hp @ the wheels.

Cheers,

Ed

  • 5 months later...
driftmeister Community Regular

driftmeister

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys

Im using the HKS Twins on a 34GTT, in traffic you need patience to understand it's ON/OFF habit. Don't let anyone drive it if they are not familiar with it, but one thing makes me wanna keep it is the launch effect and every gear change bite i get on every gear. Im on my second set now, thought of changing to the ORC or Exedy Hyper Single because the traffic situation is getting unbearable. Nismo Coppermix is pricey so that option is out. My target is 400-450hp clutch set that can drive easily for me (or my other half). Which one would you guys recommend?

full_stick Collaborator

full_stick

Posted
Posted

Mate, I've got an R34 GTR as well and I recently replaced my clutch with a Jim Berry Full Monty Item. Cost about $1700 - 1800 delivered and he said it can hold upto 700hp. My car just got a pair of -5's but hasn't been tuned yet so I can't tell you how it handles a reasonable bit of power. I too am after 300-350awkw and I explained this to Jim at the time and he assured me that this clutch will handle those numbers without a problem. Also advised me that they're quite cheap to rebuild, he can rebuild one of his own clutches for $400-500. The car is my daily driver and the clutch is very driveable, worth a thought instead of the jap brands anyway mate...

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...