Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Picked up my r33 gtr a couple of days ago and have discovered that the ecu looks like it has been chipped by garage saurus in Japan, does anyone know exactly what they change when saurus chip their ecu's?, i have also noticed that both 02 sensors have been disconnected, would there be any reason for this?

I still seem to get decent fuel economy, got 200kms out of half a tank ofr 98, and i wasnt driving it easy either for some of the time, so that seems pretty decent to me.

I was a bit worried when i 1st saw the garage saurus sitcker on the ecu as i dont have a clue what could have been changed on it and if its safe or not, but the old owner had the car for 9years and never had a problem with it, also seems to be running rather rich as the bumper gets carbon stained.

Any help would be great.

Cheers

Jason

best to get the car on dyno to check if afr's are safe, i use blitz chipped ecu on my 32R and it has speed limiter (180km/h), boost limiter removed and rev limiter set higher.. also different tune will be on the modded chips depending on your car mods etc

yeah checking the AFRs are one thing but dynoing it wont tell you what kind of ign they have wound into it. still considering it's been going for 9 years it's fairly safe to say it's not damaging the car at all... and there is no way of telling what type of tune it was given. every chip saurus make would be different.

yeah checking the AFRs are one thing but dynoing it wont tell you what kind of ign they have wound into it. still considering it's been going for 9 years it's fairly safe to say it's not damaging the car at all... and there is no way of telling what type of tune it was given. every chip saurus make would be different.

Thats exactly what i was thinking, if its been fine for 9years it should be ok, i just wont be turning the boost up at all with this ecu, its currently running 0.5bar from what my greddy gauge is telling me, i may decided to buy a stock ecu in the future just to be on the safe side, at least then i could run a little more boost and not have to worry about it not being "safe".

Anyone have any ideas why both 02 sensors are disconnected?

Thats exactly what i was thinking, if its been fine for 9years it should be ok, i just wont be turning the boost up at all with this ecu, its currently running 0.5bar from what my greddy gauge is telling me, i may decided to buy a stock ecu in the future just to be on the safe side, at least then i could run a little more boost and not have to worry about it not being "safe".

Anyone have any ideas why both 02 sensors are disconnected?

if they tuned the cruise etc and so forth thy may have turned the 02 feedback off, a properly tuned ecu can return jus as good economy, theonly other optio is that they are shagged and causing the idle to stumble etc..

i quite recently had a V-spec GTR in with a Mines chipped ecu and it was tuned 99% perfect... i was floored as many ive had over the years seemed to just have bulk loaded maps but this thing pulled 260+kw off the bat and had the timing map done spot on.... the only issue was it was a bit rich from 5500 to redline 10.8 so i leaned it off up top and it made the similar peak (about 3-6 more) but at redline made 10rwkw more and a bit more torque.

the limiter was alo set at 8800 :blush:

other than that it was possibly the best "chipped" ecu id ever seen. I ended up not charging for a tune and only a touch up.

NIZMO_FREEK go to someone who remaps facory ECU's, that way they can view the BIN file and compare it to ones thay have done and to the std BIN file. NISTUNE and DATASCAN can view these bin files.

Edited by URAS
if they tuned the cruise etc and so forth thy may have turned the 02 feedback off, a properly tuned ecu can return jus as good economy, theonly other optio is that they are shagged and causing the idle to stumble etc..

i quite recently had a V-spec GTR in with a Mines chipped ecu and it was tuned 99% perfect... i was floored as many ive had over the years seemed to just have bulk loaded maps but this thing pulled 260+kw off the bat and had the timing map done spot on.... the only issue was it was a bit rich from 5500 to redline 10.8 so i leaned it off up top and it made the same peak but at redline made 10rwkw more and a bit more torque.

the limiter was alo set at 8800 :blush:

other than that it was possibly the best "chipped" ecu id ever seen. I ended up not charging for a tune and only a touch up.

NIZMO_FREEK go to someone who remaps facory ECU's, that way they can view the BIN file and compare it to ones thay have done and to the std BIN file. NISTUNE and DATASCAN can view these bin files.

Thanks for the advice, the only people that remap factory ecu's are a long long drive away from me so i dont think i will be doing that, might just possibly take it for a dyno run and see what the a/f ratios are at the moment, im kinda leaning towards buying a stock ecu at the moment just to be 100% sure its running safe, do you think this would be a worthwhile idea? or would i be wasting me time.

However the car does go very very well how it is at the moment, better than i expected it to go even thought its only on 0.5bar, im a bit hesitant to turn the boost up at all with this ecu though, just to be on the safe side i think i will leave the boost were it is now untill or if i decide to get a stock ecu.

Cheers

im happy to have a look at the bin's if you can send it over.

take the offer!! it's a 10 min job to remove ecu. pop it in an express post satchel with a self addressed one inside and your in business. that way you'll know where you're at, and if it has a stupid high rev limit as many japanese chips do then you can get it set to something sensible (ie under 8,000).

im happy to have a look at the bin's if you can send it over.

Thanks for the offer :D , might take you up on that sometime soon, will get in contact with you if i decided to.

Cheers mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...