Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:happy: So, 2 weeks on and no news ? BTW, do you still have our money or do they ? :ninja:

Your money is safe with me. I never hand it over to them until they charge my account.

I need to play it safe for everyone's sake.

What I'm worried of is something has happened since the whole economy went into resession.

I rang and didn't get through yesterday, only a voice mail, will try again some time today.

  • Replies 447
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Whats the chance that they will arrive before the 13th? Ive got a track day on the 14th and one of my front ones is cracked so will be in real shite if they dont show up...

I've left a message on their voicemail asking my contact to call me back. If they process and ship everything by Mon-Tue next week then there's a chance you'll get it before 13th, if not then it will not make it.

Your money is safe with me. I never hand it over to them until they charge my account.

I need to play it safe for everyone's sake.

^ = ;)

What I'm worried of is something has happened since the whole economy went into resession.

I rang and didn't get through yesterday, only a voice mail, will try again some time today.

Surely SAU alone would keep them in the black :)

wow still doing these group buys lol. bought some rotors from you over a year ago.

can you pm me a price on R33 non turbo 4 stud rotors, slotted if available, if not then just normal

I'll check...

Just a word of caution, with heavier vehicles you may notice a lot of rotor wear on the fronts. My front rotors lasted the same time as the pads.

I have read that the RDA rotor are designed and manufactured to be a little softer to give better bite and stopping power but at the expense of rotor life.

They're cheap anyway so why not............

Just a word of caution, with heavier vehicles you may notice a lot of rotor wear on the fronts. My front rotors lasted the same time as the pads.

I have read that the RDA rotor are designed and manufactured to be a little softer to give better bite and stopping power but at the expense of rotor life.

They're cheap anyway so why not............

Interested to know what car have you got when this happened. I had someone said their 300ZX front rotors (gold passivated) also wears out very quick.

Oh and was yours slotted or the gold passivated grooved/dimpled?

I personally have used it on the front of R33 Gtst without any premature use (even tracked it - with greenstuff which is not really for track pads),

and currently on a V35 with redstuff pads - but I have only done 5000km in my V35 so hard to say...

So perhaps the gold passivated one is 'softer' than slotted...

This happened on my VX Calais which is quite a heavy car (read "slug") :P . The V35 is only 100 odd kg lighter so could be a candidate, although I've read it is a much better balanced vehicle so may not suffer the same fate.

the rotors were the slotted non-passivated. I've got the passivated slotted on now and well see how that goes. Has anyone tried the moly rotors?

Edited by mosoto

I am trying on the passivated rotors. If it's right then it's softer than the slotted but so far I haven't had any issues yet.

But again, V35 Skyline is 1590 kg and in a coupe the weight distribution is 53/47 front to back (in sedan it's 52/48).

It has 296mm front and 292mm rear in touring trim (non brembo) or 324mm front and 322mm rear in track / brembo form.

I have the later (brembo) size

A guy in his 300ZX said his car has 80/20 brake bias front to rear, unsure of static weight distribution on 300ZX though,

anyone know what are the brake usage on 300ZX? Worn his gold passivated rotors fairly quick as well.

The Z32 turbo has 280mm front and 297mm rear, same sizes like R32 Gtst, but I'm sure the Z32 with VG30DETT engine weighs

a lot more at the front than a single turbo R32 with RB20DET.

R32 Gts-t weighs 1260kg manual or 1280kg auto according to my JDM brochure, 300ZX is 1460kg in hatchback

or 1560kg in convertible ( targa roof ? ) form, so it is a much heavier car with an undersized OEM brakes - in my opinion

Added: as a comparison a 1340kg (man) / 1390kg (auto) R33 Gtst which is still lighter than 300ZX is already equipped with 296mm / 297mm rotors by standard. bigger diameter would logically mean less effort required to stop the car on daily use, and logically would mean the rotor should last longer.

ive got R32 gtst front brakes on my r31 with the rda slotted rotors and bendix ultimate pads (average). been on for bout year and a half now, pads are about 40% and the rotors are lipped (only slightly though definately machinable) this is mainly street driving. so yeah the rotors arent the longest lasting rotors there are.

btw did you get prices on R33 na rotors? pretty keen..

how many kms is that? just to give a rough idea how long they will last...

my stock V35 OEM front rotors were less than minimum legal - that was I assumed 49000km never replaced from japan, on a stock pads. didn't pass RWC, I needed to get a new set. The rear was lipped but legal (machineable).

I'll check on NA R33 rotors - forgotten about it.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...