Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Why not? :P

Ive seen other manufacturers put out difference power figures man v auto, maybe they are?

Because they're quoting the engine power as measured at the flywheel - i.e. before the drivetrain. Aside from different components or a different tune-up, there's no other way to account for the difference in power.

They're not accounting for the drivetrain because they're not talking about rwhp.

Because they're quoting the engine power as measured at the flywheel - i.e. before the drivetrain. Aside from different components or a different tune-up, there's no other way to account for the difference in power.

They're not accounting for the drivetrain because they're not talking about rwhp.

B-I-N-G-O and bingo was his name O. :P

Hi guys just thought i would add my 2 cents worth .i have a r33 gtst with a twin turbo rb 30/25 ..and with a manual ,at the moment im running 488.9 rwkw .and im about to put a c4 auto in from als race glides .and a dominater convertor .i will be running everything the same but from manual to auto ,so i will post up how much power i lose when the job is done .

cheers

There's little point in doing that aside from pure interest's sake. Racing converters are very different between stall speeds and this is where all the difference will come from. A 3000rpm converter will be different from a 5500rpm converter probably in peak hp but almost certainly in terms of the area under the curve.

Hi guys just thought i would add my 2 cents worth .i have a r33 gtst with a twin turbo rb 30/25 ..and with a manual ,at the moment im running 488.9 rwkw .and im about to put a c4 auto in from als race glides .and a dominater convertor .i will be running everything the same but from manual to auto ,so i will post up how much power i lose when the job is done .

cheers

i would look at a AOD aswell, it will give you a mech lock on over drive for street duties and still handle nines (800hp) (quick look on TCI, B&M and LenTech will confirm) all day long. Can race glides build decent AOD's as they are pretty specialised trannies? after speaking to a few Trans building companies in the states the AOD is the obvious choice for a tough street car with friday night drag action in mind.

Im currentley building a combo atm that will make around 360rwkw through a C4 (now an AOD) 5500rpm stall its running 3.55 gearing, so around 1600-1800rpm @ highway speeds depending on final tyre hieght choice.

Disregard the whole lot above if your car is not regulary street driven :D

ps i prefer to tune the car firs twith a stock stall (or up to 2500), then dial it in with the race converter...... tuning anything with decent power and a stall speed over 5000rpm can be a night mare.

Edited by URAS
ps i prefer to tune the car firs twith a stock stall (or up to 2500), then dial it in with the race converter...... tuning anything with decent power and a stall speed over 5000rpm can be a night mare.

It becomes a dollar issue with custom converters though. If it was a Windsor/C4 combo then a stock converter will work. But when you start mixing your manufacturers it means getting a second custom job made just to tune. PITA.

It becomes a dollar issue with custom converters though. If it was a Windsor/C4 combo then a stock converter will work. But when you start mixing your manufacturers it means getting a second custom job made just to tune. PITA.

too true but the end result is far superior and $800-$900 dollars is pocket change compared to the average 10-15k engine package.

If anyone saw the thread I posted in the Drag section on that 8-sec daily driver they might have noticed it runs an AOD variation too. They're certainly becoming a serious option now. I reckon they will be in aus in about 10 years. :D lol

Whats an AOD guys ? Some sort of lock up clutch in the converter ?

Thats the best part of my jatco i think, and why i didnt mind going to 3500 stall. Once locked up, no difference in fuel ecconomy when crusing.

Mike at MV autos said while i was talking about custom auto controllers, that i could try locking up the converter once in top gear at drags, . I was worried it wouldn't hold but he said it would. Said one of his customers had gained nearly 10 mph doing it !

Locking up the converter is also great for tuning the low end/light load on the dyno....

Without it though , thats where the mainline dynos rpm tracking is real handy !!! very handy feature when working with autos !

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...