Mallala Grip Practice Day

[DSTROY]

So who's keen???? Anyone out there actually keen to come have a go at this???? Andrew will be bringing out his 400kw GTR and i'll be taking my car out to test out the new power. The costs are $100 if you have a CAMS licence and $125 if you dont. Well worth the money if you ask me, as its the most fun i've ever had in my car All you need is an approved helmet and long sleeved top and pants (non synthetic) and a car that works.

[CRoNic...]

I'd bring out the GTR, but it needs new rubber + oil mods

Grip only? I'll let my mate who owns a Leopard know... he'd be keen to bring that out. He usually goes out there once a month.

[Damo_R34]

hmm..

[DSTROY]

I'd bring out the GTR, but it needs new rubber + oil mods

Grip only? I'll let my mate who owns a Leopard know... he'd be keen to bring that out. He usually goes out there once a month.

Yep, grip only. If by oil mods you mean oil cooler let me know as i got a nice setup priced yesterday, so i'll be getting that fitted before i go out.

[Madaz]

Dont you need a cams approved fire exitinguisher also

is it a saturday? And im keen just need to sort my not boosting and reving issue

[DamageInc]

ill come along but wont be driving , ill bring my dslr and 300mm zoom lens and snap pics

[rhys5169]

faaark that is a good price aswell! chad do they do any of these later in the year? i got a few things im in the process of doing and dont think i'll be all set by feb

[DSTROY]

Dont you need a cams approved fire exitinguisher also

is it a saturday? And im keen just need to sort my not boosting and reving issue

No, you dont need an extinguisher, but i have one in my car anyway, and yes its a saturday.

Here is a link the the Mallala site >>HERE<< and im pretty sure its still free enty for spectators on practice days

[Damo_R34]

2009

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[CRoNic...]

Yep, grip only. If by oil mods you mean oil cooler let me know as i got a nice setup priced yesterday, so i'll be getting that fitted before i go out.

Yep oil cooler but + oil restriction mods? Too much oil gets in the head when cornering hard which would equal spun bearings below? Have read about it countless times!

Oil mods like redrilling, etc and fitting oil restrictors to stop the amount of oil pooling in the head, and the redrilling so the oil can reach the sump quickly again.

But it's always best to overfill the oil when going out on the track, too!

Ah... so keen to bring out the GTR to this, though...

[Blue32]

Daniel,

The oil control mods are essential if you have a high powered GTR, especially once you go semi slicks and proper race setup wheel alignment. How many killer wasps are you making now? If you haven't much track experience, and are running street tyres, an overfilled sump will generally do the trick - because you won't be pulling the cornering G forces and using the engine high in its rev range as much as once when you are relatively inexperienced on the track. Not having a personal go at you or your driving, its just what people normally do

[CRoNic...]

Andrew, no worries! I'm only going by what knowledge I've been told/read about.

I've heard alot about the 'oil mods' with RB26's over the years. Some people say just chucking a normal U-turn is enough to rack up the G's to cause the oil issue lol.

Yeah, I've never been on the track with mine, and it's only basically bog stock! But yeah, the only thing from stopping me from taking it out there was due to the much-talked about oil pooling issues. But if that's the case, then simply over-filling with oil would be fine?

It makes sense, though... as when you think about it, the higher the rpm, the more the oil pump is pumping meaning more oil is heading up to the top + combined with the high G's (if you're going fast enough).... ... ...I think I just answered my own question lol.

So in that case, would even a oil cooler be required? Even now, on a 38 degree day, my oil temp. barely reaches 95 degree's.

[Blue32]

The high rpm is one of the main causes of oil filling the head, hence you fit a head restrictor to slow down the oil supply to the head, modify your returns including fitment of an external one to help oil return to the sump, all in order to stop the oil pump EMPTYING the sump and sucking air ( = spun bearing or possibly worse...) A high volume oil pump (JUN, TOMEI etc) will only exacerbate this problem, by pumping more oil out of of the sump per RPM. The counteract, you fit a much larger volume sump.

The other issue is oil control, which you fit gated baffles in your sump to stop the oil from uncovering the pickup for the oil pump under high G forces (cornering, braking, launching on the 9000rpm limiter with 400kw atws......) hehehe Overfilling will also help this to a certain extent.

Chad has run Mallala, as have I, with standard oil system and over filling of the sump. I won't guarantee you it will be fine, cos its an RB26!!! But you shouldn't have any issues.

As for Oil Coolers - it is a pretty important mod. Standard engined cars (up to the 240rwkw region) are usually alright without one as long as you keep an eye on oil temperature. If you see anything gusting over 100 - 105deg then I would get of the gas and cool it down for a couple of laps before you ramp up again. This also gives your brakes time to cool (which they'll probably need) and gives your tyres a chance too. Once you start making more killerwasps, then coolers are essential. To give you an idea, my car runs an 11 litre oil system consisting of high volume gated sump, Tomei Oil Pump, Oil Head restrictor, External -10 return to the sump, dual stage catch can (one on rocker covers, one in place of battery, both returning to sump) Mines rocker cover baffles, and twin oil coolers and external oil filter block all thermostatically controlled. Coupled with N1 water pump, custom header tank kit and thick Koyo radiator, my oil temps never exceed 95 degrees and water 90degrees on the track, full noise for 15 mins. And yep, its fun!!!!

Edited January 8, 2009 by Blue32

[CRoNic...]

That's a f*cking crazy list of oil mods!!

Would fitting a larger, gated-baffled sump with a standard oil pump fix the oil issue to a certain extent? Or will that just pump more oil into the head due to the larger sump meaning more volume of oil?

I'd say a N1 water pump is just about standard these days on GTR's when they get the 100k service!

[Dohmar]

That's a f*cking crazy list of oil mods!!

Would fitting a larger, gated-baffled sump with a standard oil pump fix the oil issue to a certain extent? Or will that just pump more oil into the head due to the larger sump meaning more volume of oil?

I'd say a N1 water pump is just about standard these days on GTR's when they get the 100k service!

I have a brand new N1 water pump sitting here. Dont know if I'm going to install it after all, as I've heard that it doesn't do a very good job on daily driving (aka when you're stopped at the traffic lights).... anyone know more about the cavitation with N1 water pumps? My understanding is that high revs for a standard water pump = cavitation and low revs on an N1 water pump = cavitation...

Am I wrong? ;\

-D

[CRoNic...]

Dohmar, this is what I found:

The difference is in the impeller. All of the RB pumps will fit all of the RB blocks. Standard impeller has eight blades and the N1 has six larger blades plus a plate behind the impeller. The N1 pump will produce less cavitation at sustained revs. Running around town you are not producing much HP. I've never seen an engine overheat because of an N1 pump. Guys that were having drip issues probably didn't use enough sealant, and would have had the same problem with any pump. BTW, the N1 pump costs twice as much as a standard pump (more than $100 more). If you're not circuit racing or autocrossing, that's money to be spent somewhere else.

And the N1 does have the anti-cavitation plate installed.

I personally run the N1 water pump and have done alot of on/off driving in heavy traffic on 38+ degree days. The temp. gauge hasn't creeped up at all... then again, that thing doesn't unless it's servely over-heating lol.

I did notice that after installing the N1 pump, if it's a cold night outside, the temp gauge does down to under a quater - with the old pump, even if it was 5 degree's outside, it wouldn't budge from half way.

If you haven't overhauled the water pump, even with a stock one, I'd suggest replacing it even with another stock one... unless the previous owner already did? They usually do in the 100,000k service.

Edited January 8, 2009 by CRoNic...

[Dohmar]

Hrm where did u get the quote from? I'm tempted to put it on, but I wanna be 100% sure that I'm gonna be safe with it in there on hot days stopped at the lights - you say you've got one in and definately never had any issues? That has me almost convinced but I heard contrary arguments from some senior members of SAU here (they might have been thinking about the oil pump tho)

-D

Dohmar, this is what I found:

And the N1 does have the anti-cavitation plate installed.

I personally run the N1 water pump and have done alot of on/off driving in heavy traffic on 38+ degree days. The temp. gauge hasn't creeped up at all... then again, that thing doesn't unless it's servely over-heating lol.

I did notice that after installing the N1 pump, if it's a cold night outside, the temp gauge does down to under a quater - with the old pump, even if it was 5 degree's outside, it wouldn't budge from half way.

If you haven't overhauled the water pump, even with a stock one, I'd suggest replacing it even with another stock one... unless the previous owner already did? They usually do in the 100,000k service.

[CRoNic...]

Quoted from here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107850

I'm 110% I'm running one - got Boostworx to install it when I got the 100,000k service. It's well worth the money.

Bottom pump is the stocker, top pump is the N1.

What DOES get negative comments ALOT is the N1 OIL pump. It's notorious for failing...

[Blue32]

Larger gated sump will only aid the problem because you can have more oil trapped in the head whilst still having oil in the sump. The oil pump itself dictates how much oil is pumped around the engine - a high volume sump will not cause more oil (a greater flow) from the oil pump. If you change the sump, you will either need the engine out or at least remove the K frame and brakes / gearbox etc. Considering you need to remove sump to do oil pump, I would do this as well. Only the JUN / TOMEI pumps will not break on continued rev limiter abuse with the LARGER drive collar. N1 etc are still weak. Now that your engine is out to fit your sump, I would do the external head return too - which you should take the head off to ensure you can clean all the drill swath. Now you can fit the head restrictor :-) Might as well do your timing belt, water pump and bearings too. Gotta love the snowball effect of mod'ing a GTR......

N1 water pump = no issues what so ever with my beast on hot days with A/C on in traffic. And I have it underdriven 10% with my ATI balancer. The hype regarding these pumps is amazing to say the least. They are fine for any application, but will not cavitate at high RPM like the factory one can.

[Dohmar]

Quoted from here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107850

I'm 110% I'm running one - got Boostworx to install it when I got the 100,000k service. It's well worth the money.

Bottom pump is the stocker, top pump is the N1.

What DOES get negative comments ALOT is the N1 OIL pump. It's notorious for failing...

Cool ok that answers that for me. I'll get them to chuck it on next time I get my car serviced.

Gonna get power steering, hicas, brakes and radiator all flushed out, all filters replaced and all valves cleaned. Gonna be a little smoother I reckon once done

-D