Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im trying to find the best place to run the vac line through the fire wall or at least get it inside the car and im having no luck. can some one with a 34 shed some light in how they ran the line in to the cabin???

ta

Ash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252033-r34-boost-gauge-install/
Share on other sites

hey guys im trying to find the best place to run the vac line through the fire wall or at least get it inside the car and im having no luck. can some one with a 34 shed some light in how they ran the line in to the cabin???

ta

Ash

Hi mate, seeing as you bought the guage off me I thought I best shed some light on the installation process.

I own a R33, but most Nissans and particulary Skylines are all generic.

Most skylines in the drivers side wheel arch have the wiring loom bung which connects the fusebox in your kickpanel, next to the accelator to the fusebox under the bonnet.

If you turn your wheel full lock right and remove the inner guard plastic thing (if you have one) you will see some black plastic piping along with some other assorted wires (most likely aftermarket alarm wires)

If you pull the bung out you will have access to your cabin, this is how I have set mine up.

I suggest getting a coathanger, cutting it, and zipting the vac hose to one end of it and poking it thru, (screwdriver or any other long non-bending thing works well too)

Then its just simply a matter of hooking it up under your bonnet, then running the vac to your gauge where ever it is in your cabin and ziptieing the excess hose out of the way from sight and feet near the pedals!

Goodluck any other questions shoot me PM or post here!

I might mention to get it into your drivers side wheel arch, you need to run it back towards the firewall behind the RHS strut tower, you will find a few holes there, or just a large one just run it thru there,

One other thing, ziptie it to your loom, so it doesn't come loose and hang onto your tire and wear thru (or get ripped out)

:down:

Don't R34's have a stock boost gauge...?

really??? oh so thats what that is.....

lol

im running more boost then stock so need an accurate read out.

thanks wlade666 ill give that a go :down:

all the series 1 r34's had boost guages i thought and the series 2's had the computer... which i would like to have seen in real life not just a pic, i heard they dont always work. the stock boost guage is anoyn i recon coz its hard to read... and convert to psi or something im more fimiliar with

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...