Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Well last night i got my video camera back from a mate so me and my best friend george decided to go to some private roads (those ones i showed u slip). And get a bit of footage. We tryed a few different places and gained some great footage. Final drift of the night and im about to pull over, but decided to try this one corner in revers thinkin it would be the same. Well to cut a long story short it was OVERSTEER, DRIFT, OVERCORRECT, GUTTER, FRAGMENTS OF MY FRONT LEFT MAG IN MY FACE. I hopped out of the car histerical! Kicking it screaming yelling and what not then calmed down and tryed to think of story to tell dad. Then i thought **** it ill just leave it at home and go to a mates house so i did. I didnt get a chance to check the car out as i have school today and lighting was poor.

My question is: Is the front suspension setup similar to that of the S13? I ordered a new lower control arm and radius rod which should be waiting for me this afternoon, and ill try know it over tonight providing nothing else is broken. I only ordered these parts as i could see the control arm was bent and my mate did the same thing a month ago in his S13, is there a possibilty there are more suspension components that i am yet to see? And if neone has done a similar thing, are there any other things i should check or pay particular attention too??

Cheers

John

its not the same man, let me get this right u crashed in reverse ? damn dude, u should never do silly things in reverse, specially in the dark, thats like when a car is the most uncontrollable! tough luck man hope u find the parts. check everything man!

He went round the corner in the opposite direction to what he was originally doing it in.

Good one John.

I would replace all the suspension arms, personally, if it smashed a wheel. 1-2mm out = stuffed alignment.

Get it fixed for the 5th!

hahahaha cheers for the replys guys, not in reverse slip got it right. Yeah the suspension is similar to the silvia but the skylines look much better built and stronger (haha to a point!) cars back on the road it was a 2 hour job, only had the replace the control arm and the car drives exactly the same as it used too, its booked in for a wheel this morning alignment but i dont really think it needs it.

PVA_GLUE: Drift a WHALE!!!!??? NOT EVEN, we have some awesome footage!!!!

boostimports: I go to brisbane grammar

cheers for the replys, there's still the one months wait for a new mag, and i need a new side skirt, but i spose u get that.

I dont actually have the hardware, or software for that matter to put it on the computer yet, i was gonna buy it but then i had to fix the car, haha, ill do my best to get it asap.

boostimports: stereo type me! but seriously, i worked damn hard for my car, and im not ashamed to say my parents helped me out but i still worked damn hard for it, and so did most of my friends, but yes there are those few that are lucky and did nothing for there cars, A good mate of mine has a brand new M3, but no one gives him shit for it, he's just lucky to ahve parents that are prepared to provide him with shit like that.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...