Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gts-t Heater

Davyboy

By Davyboy,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Davyboy Enthusiast

Davyboy

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252141-r33-gts-t-heater/
Share on other sites
400kw Collaborator

400kw

Posted
Posted
hey guys

i need help! was driving the other day and my girlfriend told me that there was somthing dripping on her foot on the passenger side footwell of my 33 GTS-T

A closer inspection found that it was coolant. i checked the radiator, had no pressure in it when hot and the level had dropped considerably

can someone please give me some info on the cause. i have a feeling that its the heater core but im not sure

also on that note, where is the heater core located on this model and how do i get it out?

cheers

hi mate your heater core is behind the dash inside the car ,and it is a shi...t job to change it ..mine done the same thing ..all i done was pull the 2 hoses off that run to the heater which you will find in the engine bay ..just pull them off and either join them together .or put bungs in them so water doesnt get to the heater core .just means you wont have a heater ...thats the easy fand cheap fix ..

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Yep, almost positive it's your heater core, it's a common problem. If you do a search there is a tutorial on how to remove the heater core, it's a prick of a job, but can be done in a day. Problem is finding a 2nd hand replacement core, or putting up with no heating :(

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted
ah k then

cheers for the help guys

might have to join the pipes in that case coz it sounds liek a crap job:(

and im guessing a new core would be fairly expensive to

It's easy enough to bypass, but that will still leave a fair bit of water in the core already, and you want to be careful it doesn't lead to ruting your passenger footwell.

GTS-t VSPEC Grand Master

GTS-t VSPEC

Posted
Posted

Yep

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...WTO-t32611.html

Apparently a replacement heater core isn't that expensive

I got a replacement from my local natrad dealer ( www.natrad.com.au ) for 225, it was the 300zx heater core - I had to take mine out, show him it, then he measured it up and figured out it was the 300zx one.
400kw Collaborator

400kw

Posted
Posted
Be aware that if you bypass the heater and if you get a yellow sticker, that will be one of the things the inspector will make you fix.

thats one reason why you just pull the hoses off ,and put bungs in them so water cant get in the heater core but still looks like its hooked up .and that solvex that problem unless they check it .

rinmak Proficient

rinmak

Posted
Posted

If you block them off then the water cant flow like the system was designed. I would much rather loop them and keep the system working as was intended.

I think it would be defectable if the inspector was a c**t as you wouldnt be able to defrost your windscreen on cold mornings.

I have replaced one before and it wasnt that bad of a job. Keep in mind I had taken a dash out before so a lot of it wasnt new to me. Also I used an R32 heater core and it fit in the R33 just fine....which might open up your second hand market a bit

Davyboy Enthusiast

Davyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

mmm yea i will join them and keep it flowing:)

ah right that sounds good

i like cheaper things lol

i wonder though...... might be a bit hit and miss with second hand whether its going to have the same problem or not?

rinmak Proficient

rinmak

Posted
Posted

Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

Davyboy Enthusiast

Davyboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah but I would rather replace 2-3 second hand ones than pay the price nissan would want for a new one. That said, I have never got a quote from them so it might be worth calling just for a laugh.

You may even have some luck taking the old core out and bringing it to a radiator service center to get it rebuilt/re sealed

haha think id rather pay the extra whatever it is than pull my dash out 4 times lol

doesnt look like much fun from the drawings and tutorials and stuff

mmmm ye thats an idea ay

should look into it

lol yes and my cruiser has gone 3 years with no heater as well :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...