Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Engineer?

Steve

By Steve,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I was just wondering if anyone here could recommend an IE engineer for getting mods certified.

If anybody has done this or knows an engineer firm that can do it and would recommend them, please let me know.

If anybody has had bad experiences, please PM but dont post here:)

I am planning on getting my car engineered, but in SA it is probably going to cost over 2K just for the cert, and another 3.5K for the emissions test - so it just isnt going to happen in SA.

I have a mild tune, turbo (highmount GT30 so it cant be hidden:)), injectors, cams (waiting to be fitted), z32afm, clutch, sus - the usual stuff.

Any help or ideas would be hugely appreciated

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25242-recommended-engineer/
Share on other sites
two40 Grand Master

two40

Posted
Posted

So why are you asking for an engineer in NSW? You do know that a NSW cert will not cover you in SA right?

By far the best engineer I've had the pleasure to deal with is a guy by the name of Phil Scott who deals out of Grafton. He visits Sydney on a regular basis and is most helpful (a trait which I found is most lacking among engineers). His number is (02) 6647 7558

Goodluck

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Purely for peice of mind, and the fact that I was hoping I might be able to save myself many thousands of dollars (free emissions tests in NSW:))

In SA an aftermarket turbo is not allowed without an engineers cert and full emissions testing.

The emissions tests are conducted by mitsubishi in SA, but all they give you is a pass/fail and dont tell you what the car is failing on and at 3.5k a pop - I think they can shove that where the sun doesnt shine.

Might have to post up on the queensland forum too:D

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

So if thats right, then in SA you only have to be a member of Institute of Engineers Australia, (IEAust). That doesnt sound right as that means there are thousandes of engineers out there that have no clue about the automotive game but are still members of IE AUst.

Are you sure there isnt a dual requirement for SAE. If thats the cae im sure some of the engineers on this forum are IEAust accredited.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You have to be a Chartered Proffesional Engineer, in the automotive field - I was under the impressions that to be such required membership in the IE Aust.

Are SAE-A members Chartered Professional Engineers too? I didnt think they were or they would be members of IEAust too?

darkstar Contributor

darkstar

Posted
Posted

Lol im a member of IE Aust and SAE-A but still going to uni to get the degree. AFAIK your recognised by IE Aust when you get your degree and its basically a club for engineers.

The Chartered Profressional Engineering speicalising in Automotive sounds right though, check up with the department who told you about IE Aust and the like.

Oh, how can you get free emissions testing in NSW if your from another state? Can you get the car engineered in another state yet still have it legal in your state?

ie: if i was to get a mod plate in qld for an intercooler, engine change and wider rims for example, can this be OK in victoria, even though they dont use the same system and just defect everything in sight?

I think that instead of handing out DEFECTS to every car, it would be better if car modifiers PAID for the mod plate to have that modification, hence regard it as legal.

Just a tip, Apparently the EPA in vic allows 1 inlet mod. Whether that technically includes exhaust as well im not sure, but if you got a pod filter with no box, or a stock filter arrangement with a large front mount, its regarded as "ok".

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I checked with Tpt SA and they told me they dont care what state the reports are done as long as they are by a Chartered Professional Engineer, and that for an upgraded turbo it was necessary to have an IM240 test done, the only places that I am aware of that do it in Aust is Ford, Mitsubishi and RTA in NSW. RTA are free emissions testing, just ring them up and book your car in.

The vehicle still needs to be inspected in SA though.

It is interesting that the engineers in SA recognised by Tpt SA are also recognised by VicRoads and RTA NSW, so it would appear that it isnt just SA that will except mods engineered interstate. Just that they charge exorbitant prices (here).

So can you explain what exactly a Chartered Professional Engineer is? And when are you going to become one so we can all get our mods done (move to SA, you will clean up:D)

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
AFAIK your recognised by IE Aust when you get your degree and its basically a club for engineers

You can be a memeber of IE Aust, but that doesnt make you a Charted Professional Engineer.

Im a member of IE Aust and SAE also but does little for me except give me newsletters.

Basically upon graduation you have to work in indusrtry for a period of time fulfilling certain professional criteria. Once IEAust believe you have fulfilled certain criteria then you are inducted, much like the PY for accountants, only it takes much longer and the required criteria is much more diverse for engineers.

At my current rate if i choose to apply to become a Chartered Professional Engineer im still a few years away from getting the sort of positions in a company that will allow me to get the expreience to meet all the IEAust criteria. I have already made application to get my current experience level endorsed.

So being a Chartered Professional Engineer is about checks and balances... many ppl graduate uni and still have much to learn in industry. so its a means of assuring a certain knowledge base.

So how this qualification is linked to the RTA, to stop those in the power generation game from engineering your car, i suppose its thru a SAE/RTA recognition scheme

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...