Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey blokes,

this is a little thing ive noticed just recently, would the number plate of a car (front bar) affect performance; response/temps etc

I had a chance to experience this just a few days ago when i changed my plates:

-When i bought the car, i had GARGYA on the front and didnt notice any issues etc etc.....

-Changed to GTR-13 which is quite a bit smaller and thus i didnt require to fit spacers and angle changes so the plate fits more aerodynamically.

Long story short, my car felt instantly more responsive and my oil temps/water temps went down about 2degrees; same as my knocks on full throttle (from 28ish down to 17now)

Believing it was simply a fluke, i tried my car on a hot day (37degrees) and the same result, normally my knocks would be about the 28-30mark on WOT, now only 21

Conclusion: the theory is all there; more air, less drag = better cooling which is great

-Johnny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252568-number-plate-vs-airflow/
Share on other sites

PROTIP: Left side gives better flow than right.

I'm starting to like where this thread is going...

i have a sticker made up with the right grade reflective material and the correct font for the numbers and letters. Its displayed on the passenger side of the front bar...i too noticed a difference. :)

img4724qe8.jpg

Edited by DiRTgarage
I care --><-- this much.

All it means is that with a side mounted number plate you can afford to drive a little bit slower so everyone can see how siiiik you are, for the same air/water/knock/wank level :)

its done purely for purpose not for looks. My car is a racecar and is only road registered as a requirement for the class of racing i compete in. A numberplate that is restricting airflow at over 230klm/h is something that could mean the difference between winning and loosing a race as they are timed in 1000th's of seconds. It flying off at those speeds is something i dont want either.

grow up

dragcombatlaunch2zq7.jpg

Edited by DiRTgarage

^ i doubt it.

I probably should slimline, considering my entire plate virtually covers (mounts are right near the top)

Suppose there is a gain there, although i wouldn't expect anything to wet my panties for a street car as my temps are already 69-70 degree's in peak hour for water temp which is already decent enough

All trolling aside, if you guys want to read a serious discussion on the reletive merits of mounting one's number plate to the side I can refer you to http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...+plate+mounting , it has the CT think tank weighing up advantages to disadvantages, something I'm sure the OP as well as the admins can appreciate.

It is my sincere hope that this post does not serve to inflame the vengeful wrath of the moderators.

i had 1 of those sticker number plates on the front lip of my skyline, i got done once, drove past a cop and he sent me a fine in the mail, think it was $75, then down the coast i got pulled over, and he fined me $185 or something maybe more cant really remember and that was for "fake number plate" even though i had the correct numbers and letters in correct order, then he ripped the number plate off my car and gave me a $75 fine for no front number plate, i felt like shooting him the asshole,

more OT: i can see how in drag you would want your numberplate to be stuck on, every little bit counts as u said,

JV

A drag car and a car with no front bar with the cooler totally exposed are completely different to a street car here. I've got slimline NSW plates on mine, if it weren't dark, I could measure exactly how far the plate is hanging down beneath the mounting place (GT-R front bumper mind you), but I doubt it would be in excess of 3cm.

The one and only difference I've seen to water temps is the amount of coolant actually in there! (assuming that the cooling system is working properly.)

This is from my experiences with street cars, not drag, drift or track cars.

I have a fairly small front mount and it sits higher off the ground than a lot of ones you see around and on the dyno it was still getting some heat soak at low power levels. I trimmed the bar a bit and moved the plate up so the bolts go through the centre of it rather than on top (exposed an area half the size of the number plate) and it now doesnt get the same heat soak.

fair enough it helps but only a little. driving the streets the heat wont be that bad , but if your pedantic why not run no front bar at all ( joking ) . and can i also mention goddam thats alot of records under that car musta taken ages to get it looking right

fair enough it helps but only a little. driving the streets the heat wont be that bad , but if your pedantic why not run no front bar at all ( joking ) . and can i also mention goddam thats alot of records under that car musta taken ages to get it looking right

they are all broken records...i.e.the theme was record breaking GTR...there was 400 of them!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
×
×
  • Create New...