Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bride style seats, have been retrimed in black suede

they are in excellent condition with only 1 tiny split in one of the side bolsters but can be easily repaired

3 months old

come with s14 200sx seat rails

$500 pick up only

HKS electronic boost controller

comes with all wires and instructions

was working perfect when removed from my car

$60

GTR exhaust manifolds

standard manifolds off a r33 gtr

excellent condition

$80

Coil packs

stanard coil packs from a 95 r33 gtr

where working perfectly fine when making 330kwatw

there was no sign of ignition breakdown

$60

Brake rotors

standard front rotors from a r33 gtst

excellent condition, where only used for about 1000kms after being machined

$50 pick up only

all items are located in wollongong

all items can be posted at buyers expese except for seats and rotors due to size and weight

if u have any more questions feel free to pm me

post-22977-1231974205_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1231974264_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1231974325_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1231974391_thumb.jpg

post-22977-1231974451_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252650-bride-style-seats-and-sum-gtr-parts/
Share on other sites

boost controller is now sold

also forgot to add that i also have a GTR fuel pump for sale aswell, is in excellent condition $80

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...