Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey pple i have searched and i could not find what i was looking for :P

at moment im running (splitfire coils )0.8mm gap in my r33 heat range 7 and i was thinking of going to 1.1 mm gap....

would these improve my millage and make the car run better ?

or should i stick to what i have now?

i have read of some people running 1.1 gap successfully with upgraded coil packs?

mods are basic filter,zorst,10psi,coller,splitfires

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252709-splitfires-and-11mm-gap/
Share on other sites

i know lines drink a lot but if it was able to run on 1.1 plug i tough would make the car run better and in gain receive extra mileage and power .

just reading thru some spark plug threads people seemed to run a 1.1 gap and got a much better burn of fuel making the car run better.

that's why i asked about the bigger gap

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily.

Even on 10PSi...

I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire.

I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world.

The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

You can run a 1.1mm gap, quite easily.

Even on 10PSi...

I run a 1.1mm gap, and was at one point pushing 18PSi off a big huffer turbo, into a 3.0L block, without an issue of misfire.

I was also running 12PSi on the RB25 setup with a 1.1mm gap, without an issue in the world.

The stock plug gap is set at 1.1mm, and the FRESH coils from the factory, will run this, even with a few PSi more being thrown at it, so why wouldn't a set of coils that generate from memory a 50% stronger spark?

thanx for that , i was researching if it would be ok to run a 1.1 plug as per specs as i have new coils and only minor bolt on bits.

the reason for post was to see if anyone else has done it, i did not say i will do it,or will not but, why not ask and save on time and changing sparkies over when you can get a answer from pepole that actually have this setup and running it like MBS206

I agree. Iridiums are a waste of money. What gap you will be able to run with out the car missfiring will depend mainly on the condition of the coilpacks. If they are old and overheated and cracked then the car will missfire. If they are in good condition then it show easily be able to run 1.1 gap.

And i thought splitfires werent any stronger than new stock coilpacks... has this 50% stronger spark been proven?

And i thought splitfires werent any stronger than new stock coilpacks... has this 50% stronger spark been proven?

they must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

Ah k just because lots of people say that they arent actually any better. They are just more popular because the are less than half the price of new nissan coilpacks from the dealers. Although i know there are many 400kw gtr's running stock coilpacks without any problems.

With the graph, were the nissan coilpacks old or new. Cos obviously new splitfires are going to outperform 20year old nissan ones..

Ah k just because lots of people say that they arent actually any better. They are just more popular because the are less than half the price of new nissan coilpacks from the dealers. Although i know there are many 400kw gtr's running stock coilpacks without any problems.

With the graph, were the nissan coilpacks old or new. Cos obviously new splitfires are going to outperform 20year old nissan ones..

well thats a very good point. everyone rubbished kkr turbos a while back, many people still do, but they seem to go alright for people who actually tried them, inc. myself.

the graph says splitfire vs "normal", engine is an rb26dett. so if theyre new factory coilpacks, 7ps is a pretty big gain.

i didnt even consider the cost, i though splitfires were fkn expensive. but then again, genuine nissan is a total rip off for just about everything.

LOL yeah apparently genuine new nissan ones cost near $1000 so splitfires are half that price which is why they are a good choice even if they arent any better.

But i guess if they are better than new stock ones thats an added bonus

hey must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

the hks drag gtr runs stock coil packs, the only reason ppl go spitfires is cause nissan

want something like $1000 for them brand new

they must be stronger. i havent heard of anyone running new nissan coilpacks in heavily modified cars. splitfires are a common choice for racing applications.

on my splitfire box it has a graph showing a dyno comparison, an RB making 323ps with regular coilpacks, and 330 with splitfires. theres also another graph which i assume is something to do with spark or volts or something (its in japanese) but the splitfires easily outperform the comparative product.

Stronger based on what?

They are not stronger at all.

You are comparing 10-15yr old worn Nissan coils, vs a new coil out of the box, which is wrong. Unless you had brand new coils in your car, your results/testing is incorrect.

If you purchased a NEW set of Nissan coils, put them against Splitfires - you wouldnt know the difference other than one lightens your wallet substancially more than the other.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...