Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

today for some reason after disconnecting and reconnecting my battery, all of the sudden my A/C no longer blows and i started hearing a clicking sound in my dash.

I'm suspecting something to do with a vent being stuck closed, maybe all the air is being relayed to the vents that blow the windows or something i dont know.

So can someone please give me some info on this?

I've read about a blend motor that can get worn down, but could it prevent air from being blown through the vents entirely?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252925-aircon-stopped-blowing-help/
Share on other sites

no, definately not a spark way too loud and clunky

hmmmm thanks for the fuse idea though

i took out the fuse and tried it out and nothing changed, so it could definately be the fuse.

gonna go to a parts store and have the fuse checked!

The clicking sound is either the clutch on the compressor or a relay. When you disconnected/reconnected the battery you may have accidentally earthed it out our caused an intermittent voltage spike.

If its not blowing any air at all it will be the fuse for the heater fan/blower motor assembly.

Check all the fuses in the engine bay and in the fuse box located in the dash under the steering wheel. The easiest way to test them is with a test light. Just remember to test both points on the fuse for power. If only one point lights up the fuse is blown. Also be sure to replace the fuse with the manufacturer specified amperage.

Hope this helps.

well, i checked all the fuses and relays marked as A/C and i didnt find anything,

i'm going to take a look at the blower

is there a way to test that?

oh and it's not the clutch/compressor, that's a different sound and i can still feel the compressors kick in when i turn it on as i feel my rpm's rise when it's on

dude,

you have NO IDEA how much i searched for this problem, but all that kept coming up was AC regassing problems, PBR problems and so on, nothing that sounded like what i had

but OMG i'm so hoping that this is the problem i'm having!!!!!

And i have a buddy with a wrecked skyline so it would be the perfect opportunity to get the part,

i am taking my glove box out TOMMOROW to check this out.

I'm so glad i kept bumping this thread so you replied, otherwise i would have ended up taking my dash off for nothing!

guilt-toy, you are officially my hero!

Whats your email adress? I will send you the Guilt-Toy Hero application form, if your application is successfull you can begin to pay your $50 a month membership fee and you get access to the private forums.

Whats your email adress? I will send you the Guilt-Toy Hero application form, if your application is successfull you can begin to pay your $50 a month membership fee and you get access to the private forums.

lol

and his private parts too hahahaha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...