Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, ive been busy with my car and all the internals are done, but before it drives i need to change every oil in the car. I have the manual but left it at a workshop and wont be able to get it till 28th of January. Wondering if we can get a list of oil levels for my r33 gts-4

Engine: 5.3 Liters (gts-4)

Gearbox: 4.1 Liters

(thats the only solid and sure information i have on oils for my car)

Transfer case:???

Diffrential's:???? (also is the rear bottle in the boot for the rear Dif?"Atessa actuator"

Power steering:????

Clutch and brakes i have experience with and there about 500ml's each. Its just those three i need before i go out and but the tiny redline bottles because a gallon is awkward and i suspect i need to get a quart bottle ;)

Please help as ive looked for those three and its all different.

Cheers, Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252970-list-of-oil-levels/
Share on other sites

nar i got the engine and gearbox oil from the cars manual along with all r33 engines

RB20E: 4.8

RB25DE: (2WD) 4.8

(4WD) 5.3

RB25DET: 5.0

RB26DETT: (STD) : 5.1

(N1) : 6.4

NOTE* this is when the engine is (over-haul) so it can have no possible remaining oil and the oil filter need 400ml as its empty. same or gearbox i got it from the book so this is why i trust that info.

im 99% sure the transfer case is 1.8Liters but didnt want to say anything.

  • 8 months later...

hey guys just serviced my gearbox and diff on my 33 gtst series2... gearbox took roughly 3.5 litres and the diff took 1.7 the weird thing is that some manuals where saying the gearbox takes 2.5 litres and others saying 3.5... i tried it out with 2.5 litres and then with 3.5 litres and i have to say it felt better with 3.5 litres if some one could correct me in regards to this it would be helpfull, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...