Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have an issue with my RB26. After it warms up, or after a squirt. Once the cold air circuit closed loop has opened. It started off really intermittient. Now it is getting worse. Shutters/hunts and stalls. Started off happening on the highway where it would be driving fine untill it starts surging/misfiring, feels like ECU cuts ignition and fuel, and it stalls, restart/jump start then it will be fine for a little while. I managed to get consult plugged in, and logged data stated faulty Mass Air Flow Meter code## (mind you this could of been from past unplugging of sensor, from having to clean oil out of sensors with contact cleaner (Co2) was causing simuliar problem earliar to this) have now pulled off most of piping around turbos down to housing, now clean!. I can see a little puddle of really sluggy oil (amount of a 5c piece) in bottom of back turbo housing, was also a small amount in front housing (blowback from running 12 psi now maybe) installing a catch can this time. Front turbo shaft feels ok no oil around it, can't reach back turbo shaft or get any further visual inspection of it, apart from a slight amount of greasy old oil around outside of rear turbo. I am thinking it is either of many of things after been reading a few posts.

Faulty - Mass Air Flow Meter sensor/s (enough, was enough).

Faulty - Air Temperature sensor.

Faulty - O2 sensor

Faulty - CAS.

Faulty - TPS. (allways had odd idling 900-1200 rpm depending the outside temperature)

Faulty - Fuel pump (pressure).

To much oil in the system (intercooler, plenium, AAC valve, air regulator). - not fun to get at on a R32!

Turbo said enough, is enough.

Or maybe even a injector/s or even possibly a ECU giving up. If you can help to my cause it would be much appreciated. icon14.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253073-please-help-my-rb26/
Share on other sites

your airflow meters are catus. cleaning can only do some much. Replace them with Z32s or standard replacements.

It will fix your problem.. It happend to me...

Cheers.

they can be repaired...send them up and ill do them for you. $50ea

Hi all, I have an issue with my RB26. After it warms up, or after a squirt. Once the cold air circuit closed loop has opened. It started off really intermittient. Now it is getting worse. Shutters/hunts and stalls. Started off happening on the highway where it would be driving fine untill it starts surging/misfiring, feels like ECU cuts ignition and fuel, and it stalls, restart/jump start then it will be fine for a little while. I managed to get consult plugged in, and logged data stated faulty Mass Air Flow Meter code## (mind you this could of been from past unplugging of sensor, from having to clean oil out of sensors with contact cleaner (Co2) was causing simuliar problem earliar to this) have now pulled off most of piping around turbos down to housing, now clean!. I can see a little puddle of really sluggy oil (amount of a 5c piece) in bottom of back turbo housing, was also a small amount in front housing (blowback from running 12 psi now maybe) installing a catch can this time. Front turbo shaft feels ok no oil around it, can't reach back turbo shaft or get any further visual inspection of it, apart from a slight amount of greasy old oil around outside of rear turbo. I am thinking it is either of many of things after been reading a few posts.

Faulty - Mass Air Flow Meter sensor/s (enough, was enough).

Faulty - Air Temperature sensor.

Faulty - O2 sensor

Faulty - CAS.

Faulty - TPS. (allways had odd idling 900-1200 rpm depending the outside temperature)

Faulty - Fuel pump (pressure).

To much oil in the system (intercooler, plenium, AAC valve, air regulator). - not fun to get at on a R32!

Turbo said enough, is enough.

Or maybe even a injector/s or even possibly a ECU giving up. If you can help to my cause it would be much appreciated. icon14.gif

having the same truble with mine. its a stocker. i go down the road and hold the same throttle position for 1km and then it starts misfiring. i found a small hose hangin off the fuel rail which didnt help but it wasnt the sole cause. id be reluctant to blame afm's and more lookin at fuel problems especially if your getin voilent jerks.

Hey, Been tinkering a little, getting it on dyno tomorrow, get him to check for any vacum leaks while its there. Had it on the consult again today and it faulted the MAF/s again after reseting ECU. Getting odd readings out of both sensors, points me in direction of airflow meters. Unpluged one of the MAF's and was getting simuliar fault to the ittimitient one while idling, apart from I couldn't drive at speed due to the ECU putting the rev limited down to 2500 rpm. I will post once I have new MAF/s and more info. Thinks im going down right path now, thanks guys.!icon1.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...