Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do you still have the factory ant squeel shims installed? and did you use anti squeel paste? My bets are at least one of these is a no....

If so then you can buy the shim kit with everything in it paste including from nissan, should be about $90

I have been having the same problem. Original pads that came with the car were Ferodo. Installed Bendix CT on the front and got squeeling, then took the car to a mechanic who reinstalled and grinded rotors. Noise went for a week then returned. Took the car back, mechanic put a new set of CT's on and within 2 days sound was back again.

Spoke to a brake workshop who tells me this is being caused by brake dust and I should try spraying it out at the car wash. I do this once a week and it seems to get rid of it for about an hour maximum.

Have now switched back to Ferodo which are a little better but still experiencing the loudest squeeking your ears have ever heard.

Do a search - there are a couple of good threads on how to sort this out. (Its an installation problem)

See SS8gohan's thread or others, its been covered and you'll find a variety of potential solutions in there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm confirming the "2 way" Nismos can be converted to 1.5's very easily as you already described. It's well detailed in the manual. I can scan mine if you need, I think I still have it laying around somewhere. 
    • Well, its worth noting that 450+ is probably enough to get you to church on time each Sunday already..... You mentioned cams, did you upgrade the valve springs as well? Factory ones will be well past their use case by now. And yes, the hydraulic lifters are likely to limit your usable rpms and AFAIK you need a (now rare and expensive) head swap to rb26 or even better rb25neo for that (to retain VCT) I don't think 4"/3.5" should be a restriction. What about the intake, do you have an upsized intercooler and what is the throttle body?
    • I also second realdash. I have it on my head unit as a secondary cluster talking canbus with my ecu. Works great. 
    • Something like this -  You can buy the arms in different lengths too. The suction cup goes to the windscreen. 
    • I do have an adjustable exhaust cam gear but I always presumed these only lead to minor changes. I'll play around with it next week and report back. Also wouldn't advancing, not retarding shift that power down lower?  We played around with VCT last year and it made more power with it on until redline. I had read somewhere that this is often the case with short runner intakes like I'm running but I'll revisit this after adjusting my exhaust cam.  I have a 4" downpipe and 3.5" line with two open dumps. I'm thinking back pressure would only start to be an issue at 35+ psi. I often hear people state things like "oh my turbo really only wakes up past 30psi" which goes against everything I know about centrifugal compressors. Is there any actual logic to this?  Thanks for the help dose.   
×
×
  • Create New...