Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Took The GTR to into a tuner... drove it up, he said turn it off.....

Its a big end bearing...

Apparently the engine needs a full rebuild...

and have a quote in my hand for $10,000.

Is that about right for a engine rebuild?

i can put the engine componants up if you need.... :S

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253659-weird-noise-found-engine-fked/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ouch... I know that sound all too well;)

many things can kill the big ends, from contaminated oil to detonation to oil starvation... make sure your builder finds out the cause before he puts it all back together otherwise you could have the same problem again

price all depends on what's going in and how much work is being done... could be a terrible quote or a great one

good luck

dood that sucks you only just bought that car didnt you???

Speak with Dirt Garage, he was quoting $7k odd from memory for a rebuild, although on top of that would be R&R and freight. Just check the parts your tuner/quote includes verses the quality of what Paul was offering, but over here $10k would be well cheap for parts and labour on a full rebuild.

Cheers Guys ill update with a full list of parts they will use etc soon, he is emailing me the quote.

And yer had it around 9 months now! lol oh well hey.

While im doing it i might as well put new turbos on to.. The tuner said the set up he quoted for will be good for 400 to 450kws so might get a bit bigger turbos then i was first thinking

10k sounds a lot for a bottom end rebuild (inc forged rods / pistons, unless they are tomei/ HKS etc) as eagles can be found for $750 and CP's for <$1000 now. that is what a lot of builders are using I see around here.

perhaps he is thinking an HKS step 3 kit :) really need to see what the quote is.

Post up the quote please.

A lot of people will say $10,000 is a lot (and may well be a lot without seeing what he's included) but few people know the real costs involved with an RB26 rebuild to safely handle upwards of 400kw atw

Advice? Speak to the people that have done it a couple of times and do not, do not take shortcuts

go back to the tuner, blame him for the bearing problem. Besides he should have told you to turn it off quicker and it could have been avoided and its his fault. Make him pay for your new engine and re-tune your new engine too! even though he was at fault for breaking your car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, long time no post as per usual! It's been a busy year so far, the biggest thing being a new job.  After 28 years in the automotive industry I decided it was time for a change.  I was losing faith in the industry and where it's heading.  Now in a completely different industry (electrical) working for a company that manufacture water pump contollers.  Not as sexy as cars but it's an interesting,  challenging industry. I now don't work Saturdays which is a bonus!  It's still 50-55 hours a week but having Saturdays ack after 28 years of working them is awesome!   No news on the GT-R but i did decide to add some more JDM goodness into my life....           1990 300 ZX.  She's not perfect but for a 35 year old car she ain't bad!  Just going to tidy it up a bit and enjoy it.  It's currently auto but will start stockpiling everything for a manual swap. It WILL distract me even further from the GT-R but im hoping not for too long! It somewhat proves a 6'8" freak can fit in a 300 ZX.  Sort of...  I drove it home from the previous owners house in Melbourne via Black Spur and Merton Gap (2 awesome bits of Victorian twisty road) and it was amazing!  Handles so well!!!   I don't think it would be worthy of a full build page but I'll post up some of the upgrades here if anyone is interested?  Cheers guys!
    • End game is to: - Remove all the slop from old worn parts - Adjust setup so that the wheels actually fit and the car is drivable (currently it is not because of the extreme rubbing on the guards).   Progress over the last couple of days, removed the rear hubs! Next steps: - Buy bushings - Replace bushings/bearings on hub - Reinstall
    • Cracked deck  And other cam snap stuff   
    • A few random issues have popped up since my last update. My WMI pressure sensor failed within about 10 minutes of it seeing liquid. It was a 20$ China special, so I'm not surprised. My name brand replacement should arrive today.  My power steering assist also decided to crap out last weekend. The usual, works for about 60 seconds after starting the car then I lose it. I dusted off my old copy of NDS and connected to the HICAS ECU. Code 4 for assist solenoid.... I tested the solenoid and it's fine.  I knew the day where my HICAS ecu would crap out would come, and I welcome it. It was the last HICAS part on the car that is now in the bin. I've ordered an SSR and I will control the power steering solenoid with my Haltech ecu. It will be nice to have proper speed referenced assist again after all these years.   
×
×
  • Create New...