Weird Noise Found - Engine F**ked

[Swiper the Fox]

I've been trying to tell people that for years.

The standard oil returns can out flow the feeds by 20% due to their size. Finally something we can agree on

im sure there is hundreds of things we agree on mate.

The chance of oil defying gravity climbing up and going down a hole smaller than my little finger nail is a bit hard to imagine considering there are two very large oil returns at the rear of the engine underneath this hole on both sides of the head...one of them you can stick two fingers down and the other is even bigger that you can fit 3 in.

[STATUS]

so the rods can be left out as in use my exsiting ones or would i get new ones from nissan?

as the rods come in at H beam rods $699?

hey dude i got a few good sets you can have..... remmeber though to pimp out with arp fasteners.

please no pm these are nly on offer to ADZ

[Brezza]

Hey Adz,

where are you getting the rebuild done?

i am getting mine done atm @ Boostworx, i've got a rough quote of around the $7.5k mark.

i originally got a quote for $12k but it included a whole heap of parts that i didnt really need.

the engine is apart at the moment, aparently spun a bearing and damaged the crankshaft and the piston also did some damage to the head.

i'll find out in the next couple days what it will cost for sure, once they source some second hand parts.

like others have said, dont need too many specky parts if its a streeter. i'm only gonna be aiming for around the 250kw mark. i've got upgraded turbos and other stuff. but i'm limited by a stock ecu and stock injectors.

i'm cool with 250kw if i get it, others have said for a streeter anything over 300kw is pretty useless.

i am mainly sick of having to pay for things that constantly break on the 32 GTR.

Brez

[JSTA33]

wouldnt it be cheaper to put in a whole new enigne in it? maybe not as good as your previous one.. but just to get the car going again..

just an option.

[snsdrifter]

wouldnt it be cheaper to put in a whole new enigne in it? maybe not as good as your previous one.. but just to get the car going again..

just an option.

that makes way more sense then a rebuild, damn $10000 you can buy a low kilometer motor for $5000 and drop it in, i say F*** the rebuild and go for a motor. it will be out for less time and less money.

[mitchy_]

and then another $5000 for another unknown condition second hand engine when that one goes pop.

anyone who wants to make reliable power will have their engine built, that way you know exactly whats in it, that it can handle the power, and that its in good condition.

[N1GTR]

^^^Exactly

[Brockas]

5 pages, and not one person has mentioned valve guides??

I've seen 2 "built" motors destroyed because people skimped on guides. For the sake of $500 it's not something I'd suggest leaving out of a build.

finally someone on here who agrees with the oil rear tubo drain...its a crock of shit. The Japs actually only do it to ventilate the crankcase it was never designed to be an oil drain. If you have ever looked at the large oil galleries at the rear of any RB engine you will see that the chance of any oil to actually make its way through a small hole on the centre of a dash 8 or dash 10 fitting is being optimistic in the extreme. It will return to the sump via the large oil galleries that already exist there. Ill get the 'mythbusters' to make some clear hose and mount an uder bonnet camera to prove this myth is just that...a myth. The only thing you may see going on is a constant stream of crankcase pressure being expelled up the pipe and out through the rockers. This mod can be done without having to massage the firewall and running a fitting on the rear. Enlarging the oil returns along the block is a much better option.

HOORAH!

You're not the only person/builder who thinks this, don't worry.

[r33_racer]

The statement about the rear oil return isnt completely true if you run a dry sump setup I took the rear hose off the other weekend and got covered in oil where it was sitting in a low spot and in filter! I had a similiar line of thought to you guys about its real effectiveness....turns out i was wrong, atleast in our setup! haha not only that but the filter at the start of the line had crud/bearing/conrod material in it from the blow up! However, wet sump systems may not actually have that much engine oil go down, especially on a road car. Drifting, dragging and circuit and perhaps ripping some donuts it would get some use, especially if there are no restrictors done...even worse if an aftermarket pump was fitted.

Also if you were doing it properly you would be using minimum -12 for that. Common engineering sense would tell you to use a fitting/line size where its ID matches the OD of the hole or as close as possible. We all know there isnt alot of room back there, so you cant exactly go fitting a -20 line to the back of the head without rearranging the firewall.

Valve guides....go std nissan...dont go bronze if someone tries to push them on you...they flog out way too quickly!

[wallas]

cheap build man, i know guys that have spent heaps more than that..