Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

i am selling my freshly built 26......

consisits of

micro polished and grub screwed crank

block dipped and crack tested, chemicsally cleaned

new welsh plugs

arp main studs

pauter rods

cp pistons with custom gudgeon pins .20 thou oversize

all balanced and blueprinted

jun oil pump

ati super damper 1000hp balancer

very veyr big and polished port job...

cc chambers

arp head studs

edges deburred

metah headgasket

ferrera oversized valves

hks 272 10.2mm lift camshafts in and out

hks step 2 valve springs

jun type b titanium retainers

bronze valve guides

high energy sump to suit rwd

adjustable cam gears

owes me 16,8000

after 13000 firm....

its brand new, sitting on engine stand

also have a hypertune plenum for sale to suit rb26 single throttle, was slightly damaged but has been repaired......

after $2000

alsh have a jim berry full race clutch for sale....

$1000 no offers

60mm sub zero wastegate from usa... worth 1400 sell for

$500 no offers

and a 1000hp sx fuel pump...... worth 1100

sell for $ 600

please pm me or call for genuine people, i dont want to sell this but am forced to.......

was all going into my s15...

ph

denis 0404 490 095

ill have more pics this arvo of everything....

post-23519-1232662378_thumb.jpg

Edited by den001
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/253781-full-house-rb26-engine-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

also. price drop on the hypertune plenum, 1500 no offers....

engine is also abit cheaper, as i am keeping the jun oil pump and ati balancer......

10 grand for engine.... no offers

new pics....

post-23519-1238667968_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238667999_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668022_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668061_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668094_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668144_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668188_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668238_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668281_thumb.jpg

post-23519-1238668316_thumb.jpg

Edited by den001

This is a dead set bargain.

I couldn't build this myself for that price if i worked for free.

Good luck with the sale Dennis...im sure it wont take long to move it on.

bump com on guys, som1 must need quality parts

Hi, I am in the process of building a Strong RB 26 for one of my GTR33 track car. will talk to mechanic and engine builder regarding your gun engine. my mobile is 0433559972 Melb. Alex

BTW I am rebuilding another RB26, I am chasing a set of forged pistons +20 and a good GTR33 crank to finish this one. 455AWKW with T88

silver GTRHKS

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...