Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by YBSLO4

Ya all fooling yaselves... turbo timers where created to allow the oil in teh turbo around the bearings to cool a little before then engine is shtu off to keep it flowing and prevent crud developing as a result of boiling oil. The simple fact that oil nowdays haveboiling points well above what the engine could ever get to make turbo timers a waste of petrol really, they may allow the engine or turbo to cool a little but lets face it over 2 or so minutes whats it gunna really do?? And idle can actually make a car hotter anyway cos no air is flowing over the engine and radiator.

Wrong.

*It is the oil solidifying in the turbo oil galleries that kills the turbo.

*The turbo exhaust housing can reach temps of over 500 degrees celcius. No engine oil will remain stable if kept at this temperature

*2-3 mins is plenty - at 1.5 bar oil pressure and at the flow rates that equates to through the small oil galleries, the exhaust housing has sufficient time to cool

*Idle cannot make the turbo exhaust housing hotter, as the turbo is not under load.

*The 'simple fact' is that if you want to minimize the chance of blowing up your turbo, don't idle down.

I would personally take a couple of minutes idling down and cop the extra fuel cost a year... better than a rebuilt turbo every 6 months

mines set at 50sec.....i mean how often do u fang it on the freeway, exit, turn the corner and park straight away?? unless u happen to live around the corner of a freeway:D:D same deal with residential areas, how often do u boost on a main road and continue boostin in smaller roads, not goin over 50k of course:D everytime u go home??

I couldn't live without my turbo timer... I use it every morning... After i get dressed, i start the car, set the turbo timer for 10mins (9:59 to be exact) then go back inside, put my contact lenses in and stuff like that... By the time i'm ready to go the car is around 50-60degrees...

As for when i stop, i a let the car go for 30secs before turning off... Even after a semi-hard flog, i'm running rotational idle so things cool down very quickly!!!

I have an HKS turbo timer and always set it to auto. After a 30minute drive through the freeway, and bumping into a few lights, the turbo timer usually ends around 1min to 1:30min by the time I turn off the ignition. But it depends on where you go. Remember that if you thrash the car around, then get caught at a traffic light for 3 mins, then travel another 500m to your home, you can probably turn the car straight off. Because your car is cooling off when idling at the traffic light for 3mins. But if you want to keep a fixed time, I'd say 1minute should be enough.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...