Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes that is right, it is strange, I would have assumed that if the air came in the front it would naturally flow right out the back but it won't. I remember driving along and putting my hand out to feel the hot air being forced out the back of the bonnet...there wasn't any ?

Originally posted by BOOSTMEISTER

I remember driving along and putting my hand out to feel the hot air being forced out the back of the bonnet...there wasn't any ?

I`d would`ve liked to have seen that... were you in the drivers seat?:P

On the skylines, the most helpful place to have any sort of heat extraction would be just above the radiator fan or maybe a little bit further back than that.. sort of like between cyliners 5 and 6..

actually, that is probably about where BOOSTMEISTER said..

The raised bonnet may look good but it is infact illegal in Australia. The reason it is illegal is because if ur involved in an accident the bonnet will slide backwards smashing the windscreen and killing ne1 travelling in the car. So its a nice look but does it improve the look of the car enough to risk being killed from a minor accident??

All interesting information.. is there any other way for cooling effect to be effective with out big air vent holes etc? Why im asking all these questions is, with 500 odd hp at motor that were aiming for.. i want alot of cooling throught the bay..:):mad:

Why would it slide back? It is still mounted in the same way, make no mistake, that piece of black plastic at the base of the windscreen will not save you?

If you are going that high then do a extraction scoop behind the radiator or build a heat shield around the exhaust housing that extends up to the bonnet and seal it to the bonnet and cut a hole in the bonnet to allow hot air to escape that way, if done right it should look good.

Originally posted by Duncan

Interesting point re the aero BOOSTMEISTER...I remember reading just recently (can't remember which car this was tho), they actually had an *intake* at the base of the windscreen - apparently something in the airflow around that part of the car makes it suck air *into* the engine bay.

The base of the windscreen is a high pressure area. Check out some old US "muscle" cars and you'll see some neat designs with air intakes, some used a reversed scoop that fed air to the carbs from the base of the windscreen.

Yeah i always wondered why walky's had the inlet at the back of the bonnet scoop. Kool now i know.

A few other cars have it as well before the walky did, and there was a serious amount of time and $$ spent on that bodykit design, its still supposed to be an extremely effective bodykit even compared to the v8 supercars of now.

Originally posted by DoughBoy

The base of the windscreen is a high pressure area. Check out some old US "muscle" cars and you'll see some neat designs with air intakes, some used a reversed scoop that fed air to the carbs from the base of the windscreen.

It's called Cowl Induction.....I'm prety sure the NASCARs still use it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...