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ok fellas ive just built my r32 gts-t its got round the 260rwkw mark

and i tend to fry tyres easily at take off if i wanna get off the line quickly

all my rims and suspension is stock atm

now i definately wanna go to like 245 255 or even 265's if possible

ive got 225/50 on them now at the back but 225/45 on the front

the 225/50 scrape the guards if i put them on the front

anyway i wanna set the car up for take off but also for the track

im not sure what to do should i get some sort of suspension tweaks first?

then see how big i can go with tyres for grip?

i wanna be able to launch this thing like it should be launched?

any help appreciated cheers

Ok if you want absolute max tyes and rims in std guards then 17x 8.5 +30 on the front and 17 x 9 +35 for the rear. If you want to tickle the guards then you can go 17 x 9 +30 at the front and 17 x 9.5 at the rear which is what i now run.

I think the sensible approach was 17 x 8.5 + 30 all round allow you to run 235 to 245 semi slicks and can rotate them as they wear front to rear.

As for suspension i think the best bang foir buck is Tein Super Streets with some adjustability in your suspension arms ans swaybars. Sad thing is some good forged rims will be between $1500-2000. Bushes and arms about $1000-1200 installed. Semi slicks will be $1500 so its not hard to spend $5000 in a real hurry,

Bets bet is grab some shocks then swaybars, then bushes/alignment and then worry about rims and tyres...that the order in which i would spend my money

Ok if you want absolute max tyes and rims in std guards then 17x 8.5 +30 on the front and 17 x 9 +35 for the rear. If you want to tickle the guards then you can go 17 x 9 +30 at the front and 17 x 9.5 at the rear which is what i now run.

I think the sensible approach was 17 x 8.5 + 30 all round allow you to run 235 to 245 semi slicks and can rotate them as they wear front to rear.

As for suspension i think the best bang foir buck is Tein Super Streets with some adjustability in your suspension arms ans swaybars. Sad thing is some good forged rims will be between $1500-2000. Bushes and arms about $1000-1200 installed. Semi slicks will be $1500 so its not hard to spend $5000 in a real hurry,

Bets bet is grab some shocks then swaybars, then bushes/alignment and then worry about rims and tyres...that the order in which i would spend my money

i agree most of the above - but you can easily run 17x9 +30 on the front with no rubbing using 235/45 or even better 225/45 or 235/40. i'm using 235/45 atm but i might go to 235/40 next time so i can lower the car even more....

Easily? I am of the school of thought that if you are running a 9" rim then you want to run a 255 street tyre or a 245 semi. If you are going to under tyre a rim to ensure guard clearance then you may as well just get a narrower wheel and have less weight. But i agree it will all fit, but if you are going to be tipping it over curbs then you need to be sure that you are not going to cut tyres on guards.

with a narrower trye it will slip more? or am i on the wrong train of thought?

is there any cheap way of flareing the guards? or do i have to buy gtr guards? if i wanted bigger?

the front tyres rub not on the inside guard but on the sort of mud flap part of the car when i turn corners but yeah thats with 225/50 on front

if i just went like 40 all round wouldnt that be ok? or is it expensive?

i must go to a good place that does suspension tyre breaks ect and ask best way of doing it

anyone know someone who is good round dandenong area? and when i mean good i want someone who knows race setups not street crap

Just be mindful if you are going to a place with the "race setup" thinking...as things get very expensive very quickly. My car is a long way from having a race setup but here is a run down of what my brakes, wheels/tyres and suspension has cost me:

- Custom Teins $3500

- Notlec and Cuscto Upper Arms + bushes & swaybars $1700

- Brembo F40 with 343mm rotors $3300

- Rear Brembo 2 pots with Project U rotors $1250

- 17x9 & 17 x 9.5 TE37s with RE55s $4700

Now recently i went to a place to change swaybars and play with alignment, isntall some new cusco castor rods etc and this cost me $1400. If they are charging $100+ an hour then getting them to do anymore then a wheel alignment will leave you bleeding :D But places like Racepace, Tru Track and Centreline know there way around club cars

To get adjustability you need to spend serious money on arms and shocks and then hours for the alignment guys to get the package working. I played with my car for years and was happy with how It handled, but anybody that saw in car footage of it said it was evil....and then i had Racepace do the shocks and setting and the car was immediately light and day better bu just knowing what the car needed. Sometimes its just best to spend the money....but its quite a lot of money :D

Re the rim size and slip? The bigger the rubber the heavier the rim/tyre. So i ran 235/40/17 RE55s for years and corner speed has never really been an issue for me at the track, nor has power down with similar power to you. But i have decided to jump up to 255 rears and 245 fronts but i honestly dont think i will see a grip difference, perhaps i will jsut get another lap or two before my erratic driving overheats the tyres :P

sounds like another project in the making ay?

thing is i just dont have a clue about any of this stuff so i gotta start doing research to work out best options again

Man it never ends with this car?

if im going to track the car it will definately need breaks and maybe suspension tweaks

what should i do for grip for take off? cause thats what i though maybe bigger tyres/better ones?

would suspension get me off the line quicker by itself?

roll ur guards first and foremost.

235 will fit under ur front guards fine, whether u want to go a 9" or 8.5" is up to u as its mainly tyre clearance on the UCA thats the issue, not the rim so much, but i would stay around the +30 mark.

for the rear u can fit a 255 fairly comfortably, the issue here is wheel clearance on the hicas knuckle, not tyre clearance, ive found 9.5 +40 is the limit for a 17" and smaller (18" and bigger is a different story), +35ish to be safe, that equates to the limit for a 9" being around +45. now having the higher offset means there is more guard clearance for the tyre, so going the 9" over the 9.5" might actually allow u to go a wider tyre funnily enough.

Getting a rwd car off the line needs more things then those lazy bastards with their AWD. Others will argue, but from a purely acceleration stance i think in order of priority you need the following:

1. Tyres, top road tyres, or RE55s etc

2. Good diff

3. Good clutch that isnt grabby and can take a bit of riding

4. Shocks and alignment

Getting a rwd car off the line needs more things then those lazy bastards with their AWD. Others will argue, but from a purely acceleration stance i think in order of priority you need the following:

1. Tyres, top road tyres, or RE55s etc

2. Good diff

3. Good clutch that isnt grabby and can take a bit of riding

4. Shocks and alignment

i wouldnt be getting RE55s if i was interested in just acceleration, id be going the more drag orientated tyres, granted i dont know much about drag tyres, but i know they run the softer sidewalls, not firm like the RE55s, and id imagine they'd have more focus on straight line grip and less about lateral grip etc

just depends what ur focus is, whether u wanna hit corners or just straight line.

ok yeah that sounds pretty good cause in second they wheelspin usually till i back off a little if i get a good gear change into second

and ive got decent tyres on the back only 225 but i dropped pressure down to 28psi just to get more traction

what width tyre have you got on the back? and if your going to put 255's on you havent got stock rims have ya?

with 255's do you have to roll the guard still?

yeah i will but i dont really wanna chew em up so quick ay just on the street anyway.

i might get a set of rims with good tyres and keep stockies on for the street then change em once a raceday comes up.

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