Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Im after some direction on how to take out the rear qtr window on a r33 gts t series 1.5 (1995)

Im replacing seals on my car mainly as its a 1995 model and its probably a good thing to do and i personally think little things like this is what makes a great car.

So just wondering how do i pop out the rear qtr window?

Also any ideas on obtaining orginal nissan seals? North side nissan? or should i just go to a window shop and get generic ones? I would assume the generic ones would do the job as well as the original.. however if the orginal seals arent priced through the roof i will purchase them.

Cheers for the help guys (again),

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254214-removing-qtr-glass-panel-r33/
Share on other sites

I've never done it, but you need to take the seal out with the window or it becomes useless.

I would never get generic window seals. Your best bet would be to buy replacement quarter windows with the seals attached. I have one that was left over on our Project car if you are struggling to find one, as getting them out cleanly with the seals in tact can be quite tricky.

1/4 windows are removed from the inside, they are glued on like any window and the outer black area is from memory part of the window structure - to remove you pull out all the interior trim near it, then with a 90 degree blade, cut the window sealant from the inside between the body and the glass.

yep what craved said had mine done today and then the window seals have to be replaced and then reglued in

How much did you purchase the seals for? Do u actually cut the old seals? is that why they cant be re used? (Just out of curiosity as the whole point of taking the window out is to replace them. lol.)

and what did u use to glue them back in? I would like to avoid changing the window has my car is tinted which means i need to get that area re tinted again...

Edited by br3ndan

tint should not be affected, unless you slip :yes:

front and rear seals would be replaced as by now they are hard and get destroyed when removing them. i used BA falcon generic on mine, looks great.

Side quarter glass as i mentioned is normally 1 piece with the metal surround and the glass. seal on them is just the sealant holding them in place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...