Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

ive just taken ownership of an r33 skyline , man you guys are lucky, there freakin fun to drive...

anyway thats not the reason of my post...

my question is, the turbo on this 1993 r33 gtst skyline wont go over 4psi... what could be causing it to limit?

From my previous experience boost limit can be caused by:

a) ecu limiting boost (but its only 4psi not the 12/14psi margin)

b) boost leak (will need to pressure test it)

c) exhaust leak in external wastegates however its an internal in this one

d) screwed turbo (hmmm?)

I dont mind if its any, as im confident with the help on these forums i can change it, can anyone think of another issue?

i notice a slight whislte noise when im driving but i dont think thats turbo related as it doesnt get louder, its more constant, and only happens when im moving (if it where turbo i think itll happen slightly while idle as its still spinning)

i just need a bit of your nissan experience on this kind of issue if possible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254293-cant-get-over-4psi-on-r33/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem. When i got my R33 it was only boosting at 0.4bar MAX. After numerous $$$$ and fiddling, i still couldn't find the problem. In the end i just bought a HKS Adjustable Actuator and adjusted it to 0.73bar and it fixed the problem permanently. I still don't know if it's a solenoid problem as i can't get my hands on a used one. The whining noise was even louder now than when it was in 0.4bar :)

Edited by teng

Hey mate, Try and get a manual boost tee and set it up to 8psi. it sounds like your solinoid isnt working properly. I;ve seen this happend before on my freinds car , when he unpluged his boost solinoid it melted and then we tried to fix the cable but didnt work.

+1 for the boost gauge you're reading this off.

Without any smoke from the exhaust, the turbo should probably not be stuffed. Just stick a proper dual stage (turbosmart or equivelant) unit in & set the boost to what you would like to run.

nah i have an after market ebay job gauge, im curious how the stock solinoid is connected , my assumption is the top hose goes out into the air intake system... the button hose sits between a boost source and the actuator correct?

does it matter with the top hose which point its supposed to plumb the air too (e.g. pre any sensors?)

Most aftermarket boost gauges come in x1000kPa hence the stock will move and show the same pressure as the aftermarket one. I know mine does.

more like x100kPa (BAR). and unless you get an aftermarket gauge that reads in mmHg the stock gauge will read different to the aftermarket one.

also +7mmHg on the stock gauge is about 10psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...