Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, looking to buy a rear wing for my circuit car as i have read on other threads that they are a must. Having troube sorting the autosalon stuff from the fuctional wings that will actually work. Any help from those that run a wing on there car would be much apreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254544-circuit-racing-rear-wings/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Stuart,,,I would think most people here wouldn't actually know a good wing from a bad one. Me included.

But from what little experience I have I would go for a dual plane fully adjustable one.

The autosalon ones are crapo,,,all they induce is loads too much downforce which equates to front understeer or no help at all.

The V8 supercar ones are little more than a compromise for parity.

I would suggest you go have a look at some top line national sports sedans and F3 cars.

post-29-1233138552_thumb.jpg

post-29-1233138654_thumb.jpg

post-29-1233138976_thumb.jpg

I know these are Radical rears but they give you an idea of what is required.

Neil.

LOL i just purchased one as well for the same objective.. to obtain some downforce on the rears.... BUT.... as pointed out, i need to re-enforce the mounting location otherwise the area will 'flex' under the pressure before transferring the downforce to the rears/tyres.....

That said mine is a jap band (Diecock-yes hilarious name) adjustable wing.... but functionality of it.. will wait and see.....

My noob 2c worth

found this on just-japs web page. its twin aero-foil and looks to be adjustable on both planes, its cheap which makes me think it might be more for pretty. Ill have to have a look at it 2morro. Its also weird as its called a Drift-wing. I thought you would be looking to loose rear down force when drifting ie no wing, or i have no idea lol.

post-20078-1233142054_thumb.jpg

No Ando you nut-case. What I'm saying is if you load the rears up with too much down force you will lose front grip,,,hence understeer.

Reason I posted is at Wakefield in my old sports sedan,,,I ran without the front splitter and the big rear wing straight,,,the car still wanted to take-off through turn 1 which I would normally take flat.

I know this is an extreme case but it does give everybody an idea of what happens.

Neil.

speaking of wings Neil, i remember that afternoon i came up to watch you race at OP and there was an old Toyota crown racing. It had a home made wing consisting of two pieces of form ply as the uprights and something else across the midle, the thing was quick, just looked funny. K-mart lol. but seemed to work.

No Ando you nut-case. What I'm saying is if you load the rears up with too much down force you will lose front grip,,,hence understeer.

Reason I posted is at Wakefield in my old sports sedan,,,I ran without the front splitter and the big rear wing straight,,,the car still wanted to take-off through turn 1 which I would normally take flat.

I know this is an extreme case but it does give everybody an idea of what happens.

Neil.

Stuart,,,I love Just Jap and they have looked after me for years but that is not a race cars spoiler.

Look at the end plates and then look at a race car end plates.

Yes thats a drift car spoiler that looks great but does very little. thats why it's a drift spoiler.

The old guy,,,nice old bloke in the crown and his mate in the alfa/rotor,,,,great old guy's that you might what to talk to. Shit I do.

Neil.

I can't see any of the off the shelf wings being terribly efficient. its much easier to create drag than downforce, and its quite difficult to create downforce efficiently - ie with minimal drag. you could easily loose more straight line speed than you pick up in the corners.

I haven't noticed (or maybe I just didn't pay any attention to) any threads on SAU about wings on track cars, but I have seen a thread recently on another forum of people saying they noticed a big difference in traction out of corners when they fit a wing to their cars, but they never seem to mention any lap time improvements to back up their 'feel' so the sceptic in me believes its all placebo effect.

My 2c is to concentrate on optimising mechanical grip first and only look at aero when that area is highly developed.

on a kind of related note, I've already had someone tell me the first thing I should do to my sil80 is add canards to the front bar to create downforce like on his car because it made a huge difference to its handling. I suggested that as his bar was held on by zip ties, the fact that it doesn't just get torn off suggests his canards aren't really generating much meaningful downforce. placebo effect...

..My 2c is to concentrate on optimising mechanical grip first and only look at aero when that area is highly developed.

Yeah great advice, aero only really comes into play at higher speeds anyway.

Your better off increasing rear grip with either increased track, better suspension or better tyres.

Plus if your going to fit a proper rear wing, it has to be attached directly to the body which is quite a modification. Otherwise the boot travel just absorbs most of the downforce the rear wing is making.

I Have a single foil one made by Arc, it seems to do the job, looks ok and not too autosalon..

i know when i take it off and drive quickly the ass feels like its floating around and under brakes it gets a bit loose

i'm sure i should work out how to properly adjust it tho

I used to run a C-West wing on my car, but never on the track. I was defected for it years ago, so took it off and sold it to a mate of mine. His car is very similar to mine, and runs similar times around the track. I went for a spin in his car at Sandown and the rear end definately felt more planted on entry into turn 1, and I'm convinced enough to put one back on in conjunction with front and rear splitters.

I ended up buying another C-West Aluminium wing after unsuccessfuly searching for a V8 supercar item, and I'm going to have it mounted to the chassis. I'm sure it will have an effect, but whether it is a positive one I'll have to wait and see.

Old Wing

post-8405-1233186356_thumb.jpg

New wing

alumi2S15.JPG

Wing is the last thing I will buy for my race car. I think the money can go into other areas that will give you more return in performance. Also will a wing make up for the loss of straight line speed.

They dont take effect unitil very high speeds. It will have to be mounted very high for it to work on a Skyline.

Undertray is a must, even rear undertray is good.

Ash

Dane I'm not sure how effective the wing pictured (your old one) would be... the airflow over the back of the 180 would probably stay attached to the car until the very edge of the boot meaning no real flow over the wing (mostly under)... however if the wing was mounted higher than the roof it would catch the unattached airflow over the car

most serious circuit cars have the wing high up above the roofline of the car for this reason...

Edit: ah beat me to the punch re. height kingscorp!

Dane I'm not sure how effective the wing pictured (your old one) would be... the airflow over the back of the 180 would probably stay attached to the car until the very edge of the boot meaning no real flow over the wing (mostly under)... however if the wing was mounted higher than the roof it would catch the unattached airflow over the car

most serious circuit cars have the wing high up above the roofline of the car for this reason...

Edit: ah beat me to the punch re. height kingscorp!

Yeah close but no cigar! :blush:

The underside of the wing is just as important as the top side. You need both high and low pressure for a wing to work. High pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom, therfore you get a push/pull effect. A aircraft works on the opposite principle.

This is why the wing needs to be high so you get air on both sides.

Ash

The mate I sold it to mounted it on his S14, so not as sloped as the rear hatch of my car which is why I think it works quite well on his car, and the reason why I bought this new one which will sit a lot higher than the old one :blush:

Yeah close but no cigar! :blush:

The underside of the wing is just as important as the top side. You need both high and low pressure for a wing to work. High pressure on the top and low pressure on the bottom, therfore you get a push/pull effect. A aircraft works on the opposite principle.

This is why the wing needs to be high so you get air on both sides.

Ash

isn't that what I said? (all the airflow under, none over) I'm fairly certain I understand how wings work;) the high/low pressure is caused by the difference in speed the air passes by each side of the wing due to its shape

yeah it would have been better on an S14 Dane, not perfect cos the air would have been pretty turbulent

isn't that what I said? (all the airflow under, none over) I'm fairly certain I understand how wings work;) the high/low pressure is caused by the difference in speed the air passes by each side of the wing due to its shape

yeah it would have been better on an S14 Dane, not perfect cos the air would have been pretty turbulent

Sorry, I miss read your post :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...