Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I had a quick search around but couldn’t exactly find what I was looking for, so here it goes. Breaks are coming to the end of their life and unfortunately the standard rotors are now unable to be machined back any further (front currently at 27.1mm). I have decided to go with slotted rotors this time around as one brand that the break specialist suggested was only around $50 more than a replacement stock item. Now what I would like to know is if anyone has tried slotted rotors by a company called RDA (Rotors and Drums Australia) for their series 1 GTS-t R33 and what were they like etc?

At the moment tossing up the slotted RDA or the slotted DBA 4000 club-spec rotors, can anyone give me some reasons that would make my decision between the two easier? From what I can see on the forum most who have used the slotted DBA have been fairly happy. Information on anyone’s experience with either would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25466-advice-on-slotted-rotors/
Share on other sites

Yeah, I put the slotted 4000 DBA rotors on about 3 month back now I think, front and rear. I since have done about two track days at Queensland Raceway (which equates to about 35 laps) and I am very happy with the result. We do sets of 7 lap sprints and have yet to experience any fade. Last weekend I was there and the first set was in 30+ degree heat and there was still no problem. The last set of the day I really gave them a hard time stomping on the brakes and still no fade (and took 1.3 sec of my PB!). So if you have a daily driver, and don't mind the odd track day I highly recommend the DBA club spec rotors. They work very nicely.

I too put DBA-4000 Rotors front and rear around 5mths ago. Yet to use them on a track but combined with my RB74 pads (www.racebrakes.com.au) these things stop dammmmn good.

(Now all I need to do is get my master cylinder re-sleeved and im back in the game)

  • 2 weeks later...

nismo_au I went to my local tyre and brake and he got me some discs, slotted front and regular rear (coulda got slots but they don't work too hard) for $650 the lot.

Want some info? I am going to my first track day on them next sunday at sandown so I can update you then on performance.

The DBA 4000s weigh less than the standard discs and have very good heat dissipating properties. If you want a very good product for the price you can't go past them.

Just shop around to get the best price as there's plenty of places out there who'll be more than happy to overcharge you. :P

I recently ran out rotor thickness with my R33 GTST and, as I do club supersprints, opted to get slotted rotors. The only ones I was able to secure at short notice were DBA, which Race Brakes Australia happened to have on the shelf.

In my case I needed the larger 296 mm diam. (DBA sent out the 268 mm ones before we realised there were 2 sizes and had to start again). I have to say I am very impressed with them; they're 32 mm thick and have great cooling properties thanks to the large ventilation latticework the core and the sheer mass of the rotor. Under heavy braking at Oran Park GP and Eastern Creek they did not exceed 550 degrees. It's possible to tell this by means of colour coded stripes on the rotor which change colour according to the maximum temperature reached.

The stopping power is, needless to say, also very impressive. I'm told the slots help to dissipate the gases which build up between the pad and the disc, as well as helping to clean the surface of the pad.

Worth every penny of the $490 I paid for the pair.

I agree. I wished I didn't have to spend 520 on getting them and fitting but afterwards I am so much happeir knowing that I can now stop. and they work. a guy in a merc slammed his brakes on woodville road and I almost rear ended him, the old brakes would not have pulled me up, good bye to the intercooler.....

Go DBA 4000's. try a repco store and they should be cheap. I was quoted 270 per rotor at other shops.

  • 10 months later...

"So whats the difference between the DBA slotted, and DBA 4000s??? Or isnt there a difference at all?"

you can get the 4000s in slotted and not slotted, i think thats the difference...

I got the DBA 4000 slotted from supercheap auto! dont laugh they were awesome, I called up and ordered them one arvo, they had them the next morn, and they only cost $900 for all four including the frieght costs.

best part is they are just simple bolt on replacements, so i had them on in about an hour and a half.

what was even better is that they stopped all the squeeling my performance pads made on the std rotors.

havent had them on the track yet, but they feel awesome on the street.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...