Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at buying a KS-rom tuned ECU for my stag..... Im wondering if anyone has used one and if it can be reprogrammed via consult ala nismochip. I'm curious cos it's cheap.... like real cheap.

Any info would be more than i can find online so would be hugely appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254873-ks-rom-help-asap/
Share on other sites

I'm looking at buying a KS-rom tuned ECU for my stag..... Im wondering if anyone has used one and if it can be reprogrammed via consult ala nismochip. I'm curious cos it's cheap.... like real cheap.

Any info would be more than i can find online so would be hugely appreciated.

Is that the one on eBay?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Stagea-Modif...A1%7C240%3A1318

I would be suspicious as to why he is selling and it doesn't sound like he has used it.

I tried several of the 'tuned' ecu's before going Power FC and non of them idled right or performed as stated but thats on a R33

Is that the one on eBay?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Stagea-Modif...A1%7C240%3A1318

I would be suspicious as to why he is selling and it doesn't sound like he has used it.

I tried several of the 'tuned' ecu's before going Power FC and non of them idled right or performed as stated but thats on a R33

Yeah, thats the one.... I looked up KS-roms website but as usual japanese doesn't translate very well into english over google

engrish isnt that hard to read

RB25DET is so weak BUROOFU relief,

return type and please replace the Trust' s open-air. In addition, to screw the adjustment screw, please adjust tend to a strengthening blow off. The screw is also to strengthen BUROOFU Please include slight adjustments to tighten.

When boost is increased to the 0,75~, by all means exchanging to 0,75 to boost up the case and you must surely strengthen the pump (and made Nismo Tomei) where the strengthening pump is necessary (Tomei [nisumo] make and the like)

KSROM, compression ratio is high, because the turbine is weak, boost becomes correspondence up to 0,9. The exchange KSROM high compression ratio for a weak turbine boost and will support up to 0,9. When with the normal computer, boost it raises, because it is the program where ignition timing becomes slow,

In a normal computer and so slow down the PROGRAM to boost-up and ignition timing, power and the response are not good, also normal boost about 0,5 is low, with 6000rpm levels off. POWER, bad response, and even less about 0,5 NOMARUBUSUTO and 6000rpm will plateau. Especially, power and the response bodily sensation is possible to low-speed [torukuatsupu] ~7000rpm with improving the ignition map extensively. By improving the overall ignition map, especially TORUKUAPPU ~ 7000rpm POWER to slow and you can experience a response. Power is about 280~320PS with [raitochiyun].

POWER and is about 280 ~ 320PS RAITOCHUN. When the turbine you exchange, if the fuel pump is strengthened, with the GT2530~2540 TD0625G AX turbine and the like with the normal injector it is OK up to boost maximum of 1,0. If you strengthen the exchange turbine fuel pump and GT2530 ~ 2540 TD0625G AX NOMARUINJEKUTA and turbines in the biggest boost to 1,0 OK. ROM transfer plus 

basically saying you need an upgraded fuel pump and it will run .9bar and if you have an upgraded turbo boost to 1 bar OK

save your money and get a GTR pfc if you have AWD and if you have RWD get a R33 pfc if your s1 and if your neo get R34 pfc if its auto there is a mod you can do to get the pfc working with auto car

engrish isnt that hard to read

Ouch. My eyes!

I doubt very much if this ECU will take standard nissan programming codes. It probably has its own protocol, still you can always give it a go with a consult cable from plms or something

-D

I might give it a shot.. worse case cenario i waste 260bucks. At the end of the day I'd be happy if it can be reprogrammed on the dyno by someone here in adelaide. If not.. atleast it's already got the daughterboard etc ready to have someone here in adelaide do it.

Lol yeah that translation is awful.. and it's not the words that are badly translated its the grammar. I now understand why japanese speak english the way they do, everything's phrased backwards.

And failing that I'll just bash my head against the keyboard like my little avatar buddy here. Hopefully minus the blood on the wall of coarse

Edited by Stagstock

if its a R33 rom in it no one here in adelaide will retune it

R32 ecu can be retuned but if you wanted that path why not just buy one here and get jeff to tune it or boostworx

really if you want to keep your VCT controller you will need a VG30dett ECU and retune that

if its a R33 rom in it no one here in adelaide will retune it

R32 ecu can be retuned but if you wanted that path why not just buy one here and get jeff to tune it or boostworx

really if you want to keep your VCT controller you will need a VG30dett ECU and retune that

So, seriously, you can't have a Stagea series1 ecu retuned??? That sucks.

I'm interested in this pfc auto mod?

So, seriously, you can't have a Stagea series1 ecu retuned??? That sucks.

I'm interested in this pfc auto mod?

matt... speak to tangles.. he had his retuned by toshi? or sumthing liek that not sure who/what it is... he reccomends it and it wasnt that expensive if i remember rightly... u just mail it off tell him what mods you have and away you go!

power fc will not work in a auto stagea from what i understand... and if it does its a good 2 - 2.5k to get it all up and running! for the 20 30 kw u may gain can you justify it??

other option is just get an safc2 or sumthing?? whats your mail goal with this ecu swap over

matt... speak to tangles.. he had his retuned by toshi? or sumthing liek that not sure who/what it is... he reccomends it and it wasnt that expensive if i remember rightly... u just mail it off tell him what mods you have and away you go!

power fc will not work in a auto stagea from what i understand... and if it does its a good 2 - 2.5k to get it all up and running! for the 20 30 kw u may gain can you justify it??

other option is just get an safc2 or sumthing?? whats your mail goal with this ecu swap over

Well as always I hoped to gain some power, loose the speed limiter, the fuel cut etc ready for more boost.

I did go and buy it... tried it straight away and the unit was dead as far as I can tell, either that or was for the early Series 1's. So took it straight back and took my money back.

I really would prefer the remap option due to no external wiring, no extra units and all the mods can be done on the ecu such as fuel cut, speed limiter etc. Just a neater option IMO. The only thing that concerns me is if I go the way tangles did is if it can then be RE-tuned here in adelaide.

the Toshi option Plus additional piggybacks does work (want to go for a drive sometime ?)

however, how about chatting to Jeff at Speedworks, he does remaps.....

Ive had the little ecu chip cut out, an adapter fitted to make small to large, then large ecu chip tuned flashed and sent to me, fitted it up bingo, retuned with safc/sitc/fpr.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...