Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ppl,

I reckon others have the simillar problem aswell and would like to know what have you done to solve it.

Upgraded my turbo to a gt30 with all the supporting mods.

Tune by a reputable tuner in WA.

Was told by the tuner it was a safe tune with 350rwhp at 1.1bar. Not extreme for a rb25det neo. Very happy with the car, no complains etc etc.

Problem started after a couple of days. Engine light keeps blinking. Brought it back for a check n retune ( was told the timing was drop).

Still boosting 1.1 bar. Engine light no longer pops out. Not sure whats the current power output but was over took by a evo 6.5 with exhaust only.

Recently i can hear the car pinging if i am not mistaken while full boost kicks in even with low boost setting (10psi).

Will bring the car back on Monday to see how it goes.

BUT would like some genuine opinion on what to do, not some lame/irrelavent answers please.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255020-not-happy-at-all/
Share on other sites

the PFC will flash the engine light when it reads knock over a certain level.. so they may have pulled a bit of timing out, but you can also change the knock level the engine light flashes at too..

if you think its still pinging, they might have just bumped up that figure..

either way, speak to the workshop about it, they SHOULD help you..

Either not enough fuel, or too much timing. I assume you've changed your fuel pump in order to get to this power output ? If you've got the PFC hand-controller then just drop a couple degree's of timing out yourself, and see if it's still pinging, the change will only last till you turn off the car, so will be a quick test whether timing is the issue.

they should dip to around 12 when on boost, and a bit higher off boost.

this is the dyno sheet of the car i just bought.. it probably runs a bit too rich, but its safe..

NewDyno.jpg

On a side note, if people are wondering "why is it so rich in the middle there?" thats because detonation occurs from two things, torque and load. Naturally mitchy's car will be making peak torque right where they richen'd it up a bit for safety.

Ok people, my mistake for not listing my mods as some people are asking me what mods have i done.

Engine rb25det neo (stock unopened, comp test 165x3 170x3)

hks gt3037 56T A/R:0.68

HKS intercooler

splitfire coilpack

apexi filter

ngk spark plugs ( 6 sets changed, iriway 6 7 8, platinums) still misfiring.

z32 afm

tomei fuel pump

sard 650cc injectors

sard fpr

power fc

avcr

***serviced insanely for no apparent reason when i feel the Car is feeling down or sad( :sick: lol OCD) never go unservice for 3 months.

Weekend car (drives 2-3 times a week). All items are brand new and when it comes to the labour, i reckon i paid way more for tuning and fitting the parts plus the car was at the shops for 2 weeks(installation + tuning). Just want it all to be done properly.

better question is who tuned it?

Can i post who tune it on a public forum?? Might scar their company's image?

the PFC will flash the engine light when it reads knock over a certain level.. so they may have pulled a bit of timing out, but you can also change the knock level the engine light flashes at too..

if you think its still pinging, they might have just bumped up that figure..

either way, speak to the workshop about it, they SHOULD help you..

Yes i have spoken to them and the pulled off some timing and say it should be all good. They shouldnt have bump up the figures as i have brought it back to check on the tune after the engine keeps blinking. Shouldnt they drop the power figures and timing just to be safe?

Either not enough fuel, or too much timing. I assume you've changed your fuel pump in order to get to this power output ? If you've got the PFC hand-controller then just drop a couple degree's of timing out yourself, and see if it's still pinging, the change will only last till you turn off the car, so will be a quick test whether timing is the issue.

Brand new tomei fuel pump+ 98fuel only. Will bring it in again on monday first b4 i accidentally mess up some stuff.

spark plug gaps?

Have not regap the spark plugs but i am also having misfiring problems even after changing to splitfires+ 6 new sets of spark plugs.

***additional information for people who is waiting to ask if i abuse the car. :(

Edited by lcy
Have not regap the spark plugs but i am also having misfiring problems even after changing to splitfires+ 6 new sets of spark plugs.

***additional information for people who is waiting to ask if i abuse the car. :sick:

if the coils and spark plugs didnt help stop it from misfiring, could be your coilpack wiring harness thats worn. its something most people never really thought about changing and its starting to be the major cause of misfires due to its age and exposure to engine bay heat for that long.

The load on a dyno compared to the load on the road is different, so I'm sure it wouldn't have been hitting the "Check Engine light" knock limit whilst they were tuning it. Once the timing is taken out then you shouldn't have many issues.

Personally I'd throw away your platinum plugs and put in BCP6ES plugs, and gap them down to 0.8m or even less depending on boost.

The load on a dyno compared to the load on the road is different, so I'm sure it wouldn't have been hitting the "Check Engine light" knock limit whilst they were tuning it. Once the timing is taken out then you shouldn't have many issues.

Personally I'd throw away your platinum plugs and put in BCP6ES plugs, and gap them down to 0.8m or even less depending on boost.

i have mine on 0.6mm

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi ppl

some update,

Not sure if this afr chart is the first tune or the second one after telling the tuner the engine light keeps blinking.

Tuner says he cant do much right now as my car is misfiring. SO he cant properly tune the car. (He has check the car twice on the dyno, which the misfiring doesnt occur when its in the dyno. Misfiring occurs only on the road - he cant explain why many factors that can cause it)

After getting the car back, the engine light is coming out during low boost.... this is the afr the gave me.

Have a look and let me know if its any good.

Heres the LINK to the graph...

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3000/afrgf2.png

post-40804-1234956056.jpg

Edited by lcy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...