Jump to content
SAU Community

>>>> WARNING - GT Cruise Starts @ 9AM - CHANGE OF MEETING TIME >>>>


Recommended Posts

The meeting time @ School Rd for the GT cruise is now 9am. Leave around 9:30.

Please reply to this and give your acknowledgement.

Ill pm people who dont reply, or ring them if i know them.

Should make for a better drive.

Don't forget to suck the booze.

Hey Belgarion are you still organising the Gold Coast contingent??

And if so when/where are we going to meet before cruising to School Road??

Been hanging for a good mountain cruise for ages :rolleyes:

ok from memory it takes about an hour or more to get to school road, after i do my plugs and shit on the car, ill test it out, so im thinkin bp coomera. ill give a time that will allow everyone to get fuel, have sex in the toilets and take a agb

im guessin around 7:30 gives us plenty of time to get up to school road by 9am

Ok cool.

Will meet at the BP Coomera at 7.00am for a 7.30am leave.

Cruise or fast run?

I am down for either :burnout:

but would prefer just a cruise with a bit of boost everynow and again.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...