Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all

just wondering

a) where is the best place to get a standard r33 front bar

b) is there a difference between the s1 and s2 front bars, and which looks better

and c) is there a workshop where i can rock up, give them the new oem bar, get them to cut out the hole for the intercooler, paint the bar then pop rivet an aluminium scuff plate to the bottom of it? it drags on gravel a bit, due to the incline of my works carpark.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255507-front-bars/
Share on other sites

I hear Newgel are ok, only because they managed to mount a Evo 3 front bar onto a honda civic (prev. owners decision).

You can try J racing aswell, as they even make their own body kits and from what ive seem they look like, so modding a standard shouldnt be a problem for them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255507-front-bars/#findComment-4406872
Share on other sites

Hey Matt I have a S1 front bar in maroon from my R33 GTS and it's sitting in my backyard or garage somewhere. I can take a pic and see if it's what you're after. It's the factory original stocker, nothing wrong with it I just changed it for a different style kit few years back.

Ew Newgel, over my dead body would any of those places touch anything going on my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255507-front-bars/#findComment-4406891
Share on other sites

once you get the front bar go to super audio in phillop,

they do everything, and anything you want, they quoted me me a grand cheaper then j racing, and they are fixing my hole kit and re spraying and putting a pearl on it..

and new gel was even more exspensive, i'm not knocking newgel of j racing.

i personal no the quality of the work super audio do..

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255507-front-bars/#findComment-4407275
Share on other sites

LOL was gonna go take a pic but I just got home and its started pissing rain :laugh:

Might be out on Friday but got dinner plans so it might be either late or it may not happen at all, depends how it all goes.

It's just raining on you Kat. Nothing out my way.

Newgel - Nooooo$$$$$$$

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255507-front-bars/#findComment-4408106
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...