Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, im listing a few R33 that i need to sell ASAP. They are priced very cheap to sell fast. Located in Campbelltown-Sydney.

Engine Bay + Suspension:

A/C Compressor + Lines up to firewall $45

Power Steering Rack $75

Power Steering Pump $45

Brake booster $50

Master cylinder $45

slave cylinder $40

Wiper motor $35

Bonnet lock assembly + supporting bracket $25

Bonnet hinges $10 each

Washer Bottle $15

Coolant over flow Bottle $15

Charcoal canister $15

Front Wheel arch covers $5 each

Front calipers $35 each

Rear calipers $20 each

Front hub assembly $50 each

Exterior:

Bonnet (small dent in middle, grey in colour) $50

Passenger door $40

Boot lid + flat spoiler $40

Left Guard $35

R/H Tail light $40

Headlights (side bracket broken on both to accomadate for 400r Bar) $10 each

Guard indicators-amber $10 each

Wipers $5 each

Driver and passenger windows $30 each

Exterior door handes $15 each

Antenna + motor $25

Petrol lid/cover $20

Interior:

Door trims $25 each

Inside door handles $15 each

Climate control unit $40

Steering Wheel (3-spoke) $15

Indicator Control switch module $25

Wiper & washer Control switch module $25

Side vents $5 each

Rear/back seat $40

Rear/back trim $25 each

Steering column surround $20

Under steering covers $15

Centre A/C vents + surrounds $20

Centre Console $20

Dash board (no cracks) $50

Dash instrument cluster 121000 (GTS) $40

P/window switch control (driver window button doesnt spring down, but operates fine) $10

P/morrors switch control $15

I have other parts that I havent mentioned, so if your in need of something thats not listed just ask and i might have it, thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255510-r33-parts-going-really-cheap/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I take the

-steering well columm surround,

-steering wheel and

-door trim,

-driver and passenger windows

-and Headlights (side bracket broken on both to accomadate for 400r Bar)

Cheer dude

Edited by sybrix

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...