Jump to content
SAU Community

The 0W rating in Oil!!!!!!!!


Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Okay alot more companys with oils have come out with 0W-XX ratings since nissan for skylines recommends at least a 7.5w-30W rating..would it hurt the engine in any way to use the 0W rating as the lowest. Since its only for cold starts....would it just make it better for starting up your car to get it to flow quicker to where it should..

Cheers Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25582-the-0w-rating-in-oil/
Share on other sites

i remember reading somewhere that using too thin an oil isnt taht good for turbos?? maybe wrong. also some peeps tend to change their oils based on season so 0-40W for winter and 10-40W for summer. ive currently got this tickin sound from the engine, i assume its the valves. last service used 5-40W this time im bumpin it up to 10-40W also cause its summer....hopefully that sound will go away...fingers crossed.

The W rating refers to sub zero temperatures, but it depends on the exact rating for the temp. But your looking at about -20 to -30C which makes pretty much SFA difference in our country. The hot rating is far more important. I recommend 40wts due to the ks on most jap imports and teh hotter weather we experience here. 30wts IMO are a bit on the thin side.

Nah not 60wt. Thats way too thick for anything but a smoking car or a wide clearanced car that gets thrashed at a track. A XX-40 oil is what I personally recommend. 30wts are only recommended by Nissan cos it is colder in Japan and also of the minute fuel economy benefits provided by it. We all drive our cars hard, plus the other points I mentioned, so a 40wt oil is more appropriate, especially when oil temps are on the rise.

Guest RedLineGTR

skylineakt talk to u on msn if ya want. But i wouldnt use 30w since i rekon its too thin for a car with this age but it also depends on the condition of it too.. If it smokes abit and if u maybe have a catch can and u can tell that there is too much oil in thier then u might need to up the rating or thier might be some other problems associated with that.

With the Low rating i read that like 0W is like for -40C temps and 5w is for -35C and 10w is like -25C so i guess it is for cold temps which would never be achieved in aus. Also remember these cars were also made in jap and were meant to be used thier...the manual specs are not "modified for aus" conditions. since jap have much colder winders and different conditions than here.

I personally Use 5-40w Seem to run fine. If i find a other brand oil that does 10-40w in full synth then i'll give that a whirl. Also looking at mobil 1 normal/syntec either one...it has from results good high temp stablilty compaired to more expensive oils seems the go, especially with summer.

Going too thin may have adverse effects because, if the oil is like water, the pump won't be able to build up enough pressure to make sure the oil is squirted to the right places in the engine..

Also, the surface tension may break down and allow metal to metal contact - only likely in a worn engine though, I'd say..

As a general rule, go thicker in summer since a given oil will thin with higher temperatures. I also wouldn't go more than 1 grade thinner than the manufacturer recommends, and even then I'd only go thinner after considering your engine's condition. It can give better performance but it's not worth it if longevity is compromised (unless you feel like a rebuild anyway lol!)

Castrol's Formula R comes in 4 different flavours - 0W-40, 5W-30, 10W60, and 25W-50. The first three are full synth, the last is mineral.

I'm thinking of a 5W-40 for summer. I was running 10W-60 for awhile, there were absolutely no problems other than slight loss of power and worse economy.

I really need an oil temperature gauge to decide once and for all what I should be using in summer. An oil cooler should enable you to run thinner oil too.

Yeah see I'm currently using the Castrol R 5w-30 which is about $60 bucks from what I can remember last time. The 0w-40, i think is the new one that came out and I think it is about $80 bucks!!

I was told that by the guy at the shop, even tho Castrol R 5w-30 says full synth on the label, it is still not 100% full synth. There are still other minerals in there?!?! Not sure was he just trying to sell me the more expensive oil.

All castrols arent even true synthetics. They are API Grp 3 oils, which are synthesised from crude oil basestocks. Mobil and Motul for example use PAOs or Esters (Grp 4&5 respectively) which are true synthetics. Grp 3s are still good but are cheaper to synthesize, and arent as good as PAOs and esters. The only thing crap about Castrol is that they market their oil at or even more expensive than PAOs which is just stupid... Mobil took Castrol to court over this, cos Castrol claimed their oils were synthetic, when Grp3s technically are not... Moreover, Shell Helix Ultra is a Grp3 oil but its marketed at an appropriate price of 45bux a bottle. 80 bux a bottle for the same thing of Castrol, what a rip....

Yeah I'm not too sure Castrol's so good anymore. I put it in my bike and after about 2500km the gear shift lever got a little "sticky". When I changed the oil it was good again, but I don't think I want to keep using it anymore. I think I'll switch to Mobil 1 for the car and go back to a Motul semi-synth for the bike.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...