Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was told that TPS was dodgy was causing the idling, gearshift problems & tight steering when backing out driveway. So I had to buy tps through Nissan and after a week it turned up. Fitted last thursday, took car for a drive and was no better. Yesterday I checked tps volts via Apexi AVCR, new verses old and there was no real difference??!! New read 1.13v closed & 3.98v open. Old read closed 1.3v & 3.95v open. Does anybody have any tips so car doesn't have to go mechanic on tuesday?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/
Share on other sites

That fault code could have been there for years, it stays in the memory, even it if it detects a glitch for a split second, ie, tps may have been dissconnected during some maintenance in the past thus logging a code. Best way to check is clear codes first and look for codes that appear repeatedly. You may have several problems, cant see how idle problem can be linked to tight steering.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414285
Share on other sites

If the car is idling weirdly and lower than normal the steering will get tighter as the power steering pump isn't being driven fast enough.

I have an after market ecu and for a long time the car would almost die as i came to a stop, or would actually stall at the lights, more so at night with the headlights on. Blamed my tune for ages and kept getting the tuner to retune the issue, wasn't getting charged for it. After a while he noticed that the tps voltage would intermittently "bounce around", at idle. Replaced the TPS and all fixed, idle is alot more stable too.

Have a look at your tps voltage, while the fault is occuring. See if it is changing by itself, without any throttle input. The sensor could be fine, but the throttle shaft, etc, could be loose/worn, causing false readings.

Could also be an ecu issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414303
Share on other sites

Yer have read those volts needed. Just double checked at computer and had same closed volts as SAFC (1.3v). Just took for a drive. 4wd and check engine light stay on. A/T light flashed 4-5 times on startup. Getting worse!!!

Edited by skidkid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414414
Share on other sites

Need to clear all codes first as Chook said...make sure u get the "55" code which is no malfuncton after reset.

TPS fault code is "43" see if you get this once you have reset your ECU.

If still have the code, from the R34 service manual this is how you set the TPS;

1. Rotate sensor body until you get the specified value on your multimeter (specified value is 4.6V). From memory connect one of the middle pin TPS wires and good engine ground.

Do this with;

a) IGN switch "ON"

b) engine NOT running

c) Accelerator pedal not pressed

The TPS code will trigger when the output voltage is 4.7V or greater (open circuit) or less than 0.3V (short circuit) for predetermined time while park/neutral switch is OFF and speed is 4km/hr or higher.

Give it a go and see how you go. Make sure there are no codes left in system once sorted i.e reset ECU again.

Edited by RS4StagMan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256022-dodgy-tps/#findComment-4414826
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...