Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a mate inspect the set up i had, he went over the whole car, top to bottom, checked and re connected the head unit from scratch, followed the rca and remote wire to the amp, connected it properly to the battery and capacitor, i double checked it, amp fuses still blew out. Funny thing is ALL 4 fuses blew out, but the 50amp inline power fuse didnt blow... we didnt even have the rca/remote or the sub speaker wires connected so it must have to be a problem with the brand new crappy boss mono block amp.

some vital stats were grounded properly, 14.2 volt was constant (even when starting the car), also recons that the amps were a constant 1.4 amps even when starting the car, i thought you couldn't measure amps but he recons he did and he has seen systems running with peaks of up to 14amps and the (amp) could handle the power. oh i'm talking about power current (amps) aswell as the box (amp) that makes subs work properly lol. also he measured a few other things and said this car with these stats are perfect for safely running a good sytem....

He used to be a professional installer while he was at uni, now he's moved on but still knows his shit... He said the old Luxon amp i had must have just given up after about 5 years of being hammerd and transfered from 4 cars in its life time, and its coincidence that the boss mono block amp that was bought brand new (3 weeks ago) must have been a dud (also saying boss doesn't have the best name for reliablility around and this scenario could be more conceivable). He said if i throw in a known working amp that is more reliable and it still works, then the boss amp is a dud, if a known working amp doesnt work in the car then the car its self is the problem. Seing as the system worked well for a year before the amp broke, how then could the car it self be the problem?

the car is a simple set up, 8 gauge power cable from positive terminal of battery to positive section of capacitor, then the positive section of capacitor terminal to the positive section of the amp.

Negative terminal from capacitor to negative section of amp, and negative section of capacitor grounded to chassi where the battery is actually grounded to.

Also i by passed the capacitor with battery directly being connected to the amp through 8 guage with 50 amp fuse, and the negative from the amp getting grounded to the chassi, same thing happend.

Also i ask for chris roger to throw in what he thinks of the situation coz after reading thousands of posts on here i recon this guy is 99/100 correct if not 100% correct in this field and his imput would be greatly appreciated.

Chhers guys and sorry for the long read

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256109-amp-troubles/
Share on other sites

thanks for the quick reply chris, but i dunno if i should drive the car up to brizzy lol, you not comming down for a holliday anytime soon are you? lol

has to be a dead amp... just has to be.... i want my bass back....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256109-amp-troubles/#findComment-4415253
Share on other sites

ALL sorted out, the boss amp was faulty, and my rca cable was shorting so thats why my original amp would turn on but not have any sound through the subs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256109-amp-troubles/#findComment-4417088
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...