Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is funny. People are listening to so much BS about HSVs...

The Ford BOSS V8 is Quad-cam (DOHC per bank). The Falcon V8 doesn't put out more power, but does have shite-loads more torque (40Nm).

It's an iron-block, truck bottom end with Aussie designed Mustang 4.6Litre V8 heads.

Holden HAVE been able to get the tuning right (more than the Americans) but have restricted (retarded) the tune of the Gen III for local conditions, emissions, and economy. Oh, and the fact that most Aussies can't drive for sh!t.

The reason the C4B (300kW) V8 is made by Callaway is for cost. they use crate motors for the 400hp GTS' while the 255/260/285kW cars are ordinary SS engines with:

New exhaust (not headers) with cat and muffler and tip

New tune on ECU. (They go through a computer terminal that allows them to choose how much power the ECU tells the engine to make. Ie: they open up different "hidden" maps in the ECU like 290kW, 330kW, etc)

Some more cosmetic bits.

Horses for courses. Skyline's a different car doing different job. I'm not suggesting we join hands and sing songs of praise but respect your fellow petrol heads' rides and they'll respect yours. If you don't like that, catch a bus.

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Erm, yes i do have a clue about that. Why don't you drive a ZO6 C5 Vette against a 300kW GTS Coupe over a rough road. The Vette will be left scuttle-shaking all over the tarmac.

Holden got the tune right cause the Americans adopted the specs for their engines in 2001. You obviously have no idea about the factory Delco engine management. :D

As for Trans-Am/Z28/SS Camaro/GS/Mustang good luck. The Cobra R is the only one that could be the locals but have you driven one? The build quality is non-existent and a blind demented kid could've designed a better looking car

Originally posted by Sonic

Erm, yes i do have a clue about that. Why don't you drive a ZO6 C5 Vette against a 300kW GTS Coupe over a rough road. The Vette will be left scuttle-shaking all over the tarmac.

Holden got the tune right cause the Americans adopted the specs for their engines in 2001. You obviously have no idea about the factory Delco engine management. :D

As for Trans-Am/Z28/SS Camaro/GS/Mustang good luck. The Cobra R is the only one that could be the locals but have you driven one? The build quality is non-existent and a blind demented kid could've designed a better looking car

Im not going 2 reply as this is a thread about Skyline and Hsv, make a thread and i will talk 2 u about that stuff

This is too much fun:D

On the other hand, the 5.4L V8 in the BA falcon was built in australia (still using mostly american parts though) but still a much better engine as it has DOHC.

Sorry you are wrong there. Having DOHC does not make an engine good, just as pushrods dont make engines bad.

As someone said the Boss engine is based on a truck bottom end with Mustang heads. At 6,000rpm the thing has piston speeds within a couple m/s of an F1 engine (ie. cant really rev any harder) So is never going to make any decent power without forced induction.

And rule out turbos as the width of the engine means there is no space, so really if you want more power from one all you can do is supercharge it.

Cams will be almost a waste of time as the engine cant rev any harder, and bloody expensive as you will need 4 cams ($$$$)

I can guarantee that if you go chasing power out of the GenIII or Boss 5.4L, the Chev will leave it for dead.

That said Ford are bringing out a blown 5.4L, but these Boss engines do not have near the power potential in the hands of the aftermarket tuner.

Well thats my thoughts anyway.

New tune on ECU. (They go through a computer terminal that allows them to choose how much power the ECU tells the engine to make. Ie: they open up different "hidden" maps in the ECU like 290kW, 330kW, etc)  

LOL!

if it was only that easy.

imagine

wake up in the morning and say ok i feel like 800hp today, so u type in 800hp on the computer and away you go! :bahaha:

Actually its true with many of the modern engines. The tune dictates the power of the engine, conservative ignition, plenty of fuel, crappy exhausts/inlets are the differences between a family of engines, not the actual engine internals.

Not only on local Ford and Holdens but on Audi/VW/Skodas etc etc who rely on the same engine families

bear in mind that the majority of people who buy HSVs and GTs don't go looking to modify them, so who cares if u can't get much more out of a 290kw GT?

on that topic tho, i work at a ford dealer and their currently fitting a supercharger kit, that should allow the engine to produce around 400kws....

use are all saying that hsv are like 50,000 compared to a gtst

have use actually been ine one before???

i truly doubt every cent of that 50,000 has gone towards its motor...... one of my mates has a new r8 and fark me its a pleasure to sit in with th einterior it has.

shits all over the standard r33 gtst thats 100% for sure ... i cant believe dick heads like use say shit like this all day long... its a ****en classy car.. does 13.8 stock

interior is unreal and yet use still bag da **** out of it...

personally i think a hsv is alot more classier then a r33 gtst

I think we have to remember that a car has more point's to it than just 1/4 mile time's....

Sure a GTR is a fast car with awsome handeling.... But the seat's and the tough suspension would DEFINATELY give you a sore A$$ and back by the time you made it to Brisbane....

Commodore seat's are comfortable... and matched perfectly to the "Average" Aussie body and weight... with plenty of lower back support and leg support. The dash instruments are lit well and 100 kmph sit's right at the top of the arc so it is easy to see....

There a lot of little thing' s that come in to play, Torque is plenty low down where you need it most..... not all car's need to hammer to 9,000 rpm to make max power when over taking (although the scream when overtaking is fun :() They can fit 4 - 5 people in comfort and still haull A$$ ..... They New VY series II HSV's look awsome.... i really like that colour (looks similer to the midnight purple in the GTR) and Skaife really give's it a hammering.

When i'm 50... i hope to have a nice HSV..... and an awsome TEAM of GTR's running in the PRO CAR series....

Loz

I have driven a friend's new XR8 and it is a very nice car. I would keep it if someone gave me one but I wouldn't buy one myself unless I could still afford to keep the Skyline as my weekend car, because it's just too agricultural. It feels like you're driving a big hovercraft (although it does handle pretty well for its size) and even though there's 260kw on tap it just doesn't feel fast because of the huge weight of the thing.

Because my friends (married couple) use it as a work car it's not going to get much if anything in the way of performance mods. But still, it's faster than the vanilla 6 cylinder versions of Commodores/Falcons.

(these comments made because I think that the BA XR8 would be very similar to a current HSV)

have u been in one?

have u seen the quality of there interior

its like sitting in a big leather couch

HSV isnt factory produced holden..

HSV grab some cars of the production line and do things to them hence HSV enhanced...

there sexy cars..

perhaps you should drive in way...

made my skyline interior look like mud thats 100% sure..

100% kicks da shit out of any jap interior...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...