Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The primary need is to atomise the water as fine as possible, and I use the Spraying systems nozzle as identified in the autospeed article for both applications. I have the intake spray after the intercooler in the line where the air velocity is higher so there is less chance the water might settle out to pool. Before the IC it could settle out as the velocities reduce, much like an oil catch can or dry sump, although I doubt it with the heat. It is on a rising pipe as well so any overspraying or activation when the engine is not running will have the water run down to the intercooler. Just worried about hydrostatic lock. It is really a worthy upgrade.

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What water does is raise the detonation threshold.

To understand what this is, you need to understand detonation. What happens with detonation is that the trapped mixture is ignited by the spark and begins to burn in the area immediately around the plug. This burning causes the (mostly)nitrogen in the air to expand from the heat and increase the chamber pressure.

Now the burning continues until all the mixture is burned and pressure and temperature reach a maximum, usually at about 20 degrees ATDC. The ignition timing is early enough to always get the maximum at around 20 degrees ATDC.

What can happen though, is that the pressure and temperature in the chamber can get high enough to cause not burning but a spontaneous EXPLOSION. The whole lot detonates like a bomb creating a huge shock wave that breaks things.

So it is temperature and pressure that causes detonation. So you must lower the temperature and pressure reached DURING ACTUAL COMBUSTION(or use a less detonation prone fuel).

One way is to inject water. It does not have to be fully vaporised before it reaches the engine. Even a solid jet of water is going to flash into steam either during the compression stroke, or actual combustion. It is the high latent heat of water that lowers the peak combustion temperature and reduces detonation.

Another interesting feature is that the steam expands along with the nitrogen in the air to act as the working fluid that pushes down the piston. So although peak temperatures are much reduced, the pressures are not, and you lose no power by adding water, in fact you gain a bit.

A lot of people do not realise that it is the nitrogen in the air that does not burn which actually pushes the piston down. And steam works even better.

The reason I suggested fuel injectors is because they can meter in precise small quantities into every cylinder, and the fine spray is going to assist vaporisation.

Spraying water into the turbo inlet also works, but like fuel distribution, you have no way of knowing if that water is going to find its way into all cylinders in equal quantity. It will if it is fully vaporised, but it may not be.

Warpspeed

I like your explanation, saved me from digging through my archives although I would suggest that the nitrogen is not the only working fluid, even though it takes up some 70% of the atmosphere. This was the reason for oxygen injecting the Lynx 1.8 with stock exhaust and pod filter to achieve low 7 second 0-100 times. Also used an extra injector and water injection off a throttle switch to activate it all and activated it at over 3000rpm for a huge push from the little machine.

Anyway, have to go look for some new pistons. Time to go to that forged piston thread after the bearings went west and scored #3 big end journal and cracked 2 pistons prior to the water injection.

Yes you are right. The other gasses and fuel do not just disappear, but the nitrogen working fluid is something that fascinated me when I first learned of it.

It is also why nitrous oxide works so well, it is mostly nitrogen (N2O). I believe pure oxygen will increase combustion temperatures and can lead you up the dreaded detonation path, so be careful.

One way is to inject water. It does not have to be fully vaporised before it reaches the engine. Even a solid jet of water is going to flash into steam either during the compression stroke, or actual combustion. It is the high latent heat of water that lowers the peak combustion temperature and reduces detonation.

Yes, everything you said is true, but I still stand by my claim that injecting the water further up the intake piping will give it more time to effect it's intake charge temperature drop, rather than an instantaneous conversion from liquid -> gas if you were to squirt it down the runners.

Also atomised water will absorb a lot more heat than a "solid jet of water", as it has a lot more surface area. Using fuel injectors will not achieve this at all.

You are right, early complete vaporisation WILL remove heat from the intake charge, and lower induction temperatures. No argument there. Also lower charge temperatures mean more density, and this is extremely important for power production. So I agree.

But reducing detonation is a completely different thing to producing power. Detonation is only due to the peak temperature and pressure reached during actual combustion. Provided a certain mass of water is totally turned to vapor (boiled) the specific heat will reduce the final combustion temperature, and combustion will remain controlled.

So purely from detonation point of view it does not really matter where the water is introduced, or where along the chain of events it all finally boils off. During combustion it most certainly will all boil because the temperatures are so high.

Once again you are getting to the crux of the discussion. The cooler air is good, but the volume of water to cool the air is a tradeoff that sees no benefit from the cooler, denser charge. It is the detonation suppression that is the real benefit in introducing water to the cylinders.

I agree with Warpspeed, I think the water would flash into steam due to the heat.

Hydrolic lock is the big fear, thats why you have a safety solonoid valve in the system that stops the engine drawing water down the tube when not in boost cycle. Also stops dribbling etc.

I'm going down the path of an individual fogging nozzle in each runner with a computer controlled pump (inputs: RPM, Boost, Water Pressure).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...