Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i blew my rb20det up and i cant drive turbo any more due to red p plates and 1 point left...

my question is can i put a rb30na in my r32 gtst..

i have a rb30 engine ,loom and ecu....has any one done this if so what is the wiring like to get it started..

any help muchly muchly appreciated

travis

Yes it can be done. Look around for a thread on wiring up an rb20 in an r31 and do the reverse of that in your 32. I think theres a thread on an r31 club website somewhere. I came across it on google.

I dont know if its legal to put an older motor into a newer car though. You might also want to look into that.

You have/had an RB20DET but you can't drive a turbo? As far as I understand, the car's VIN is still a turbo car and that is what they go by. I'm not completely sure how it is in Vic though. In Queensland the rule also states any modification that requires an Engineer's Approval and mod plate.

If it's the same sort of deal in VIC then changing the engine is going to need engineer approval.

I think you've got a few things to look into in terms of the legalities of the mechanical work to be done in accordance with your licencing before working out your options.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I strongly recommend anyone playing with cars chasing anything electric, get a basic understanding of using a DMM, and about 12V DC systems. They're REALLY easy, you only need to know V=IR and how to apply it, and you can work out what your readings should be doing. For a simple check on a light bulb, you're looking for 12V at the positive to the light, a near zero resistance to ground, and then for a small resistance across the globe when unplugged. If one of those values isn't right, you won't get what you need. Now if they're all okay,and you then plug the light in, and it still won't work, you now do a voltage check across the globe positive to negative. It should effectively read full battery voltage. If it's not, especially if it's quite low, the age old V=IR starts to be able to be thought about, you now know though, for the current flowing, there isn't much voltage for the given resistance, but the rest of that V has to be dropping somewhere else. So now do a voltage check from ground of globe, to ground of car, then do voltage check from positive of battery, to positive of the light connector. Things like a high resistance in a wire/join will start to "steal" voltage on you. So now step back through which ever wire, until you find the voltage drop is non existent, you're now before what ever is steal your voltage for example.   There's plenty of YouTube videos, but really worth understanding some V=IR, and doing some even theoretical numbers to start to understand it. Then you'll know what the DMM is telling you.
    • Is Jackie home by Friday?
    • Item 10: Tech Edge wideband sensor interface and display. You’ll need to buy a new sensor. $150. Item 11: part of a Willians 5 point harness. $40 Item 12: OS88 gear display. No need for it now, my PPG sequential came with one. $30
    • I took it out, even though I knew I probably don't know what I'm doing other than looking for power signal lol. Lesson learned here I guess, even if it looks normal, worth checking as it only takes a few seconds anyhow. And maybe disconnect the battery, even though really shouldn't have to.
×
×
  • Create New...