Jump to content
SAU Community

Oem Timing Belt Idler And Tensioner Bearings And Spring


Recommended Posts

had my 100k service done a few months ago on my R34 with new timing belt and all but the idler and tensioner bearing and spring were not replaced at the time as I wasn't aware they should be.

Does anyone know how much these 3 things cost from Nissan directly and approx. time/labour costs in installing them? Any reliable suppliers other than Nissan, I inly want oem/Nissan items for the bearings and spring. There's a trader on sau selling 100k kits but someone recently posted photos of the bearings he got and they don't look right (size wise, compared to the original ones).

is that 'CBC' ? I can't find a seven hills branch .. got their phone # by any chance? Actually I wouldn't mind a branch closer to the city if that is indeed the same company I've found

I've bought NSK bearings from some bearings place awhile ago.. But they're suppose to be the same as OEM so you can try those.

I got them for about $110 for Idler and Tensioner. Heard Nissan charges you through the roof for these stuff.

I think it cost the same as getting your timing belt replaced.

Edited by ducki
I've bought NSK bearings from some bearings place awhile ago.. But they're suppose to be the same as OEM so you can try those.

I got them for about $110 for Idler and Tensioner. Heard Nissan charges you through the roof for these stuff.

I think it cost the same as getting your timing belt replaced.

I paid $500 to have my timing belt replaced ..are you saying its gonna cost that much to have these bearings and spring replaced? If so f**k it.

Well... I think you should ask your mechanic if the labor is the same as timing belt... as I remember, my timing belt will void warranty if I don't get the bearings replaced as well.

Oh, if you decide to do it.. maybe think of replacing your water pump as well?

Edited by ducki

water pump WAS replaced ... I have no idea why I wasn't told about idle/tensioner bearings .. useless dickheads at 'NSP' (lets just leave it at the acronym)

im pretty sure thats the same seller I saw before ..and someone was complaining about the size of the bearings they got (were different by 1mm from original) Just seemed a bit sus ... not risking it with the bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...