Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtr V Spec Over Heating

r34vspec

By r34vspec,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

r34vspec Apprentice

r34vspec

Posted
  • Author
Posted
From memory thats seems fine on a hot day as my car can get to those temps too. + it depends if you run your A/C or driving up a hill, anything that requires the car to be rev'd alittle harder with effect the temps. Again its normal.

Normal crusing temps are just under 90 degrees.

From my understanding, the R34 GTR's seem to hold quite a consistant temp, even with a bit of a fang.

My friend Tim GTR on SAU has a R34 GTR V-Spec, I took it out for a run, hammered it down the straight and a few corners, then check the MFD with the oil and water temps and they seem stable and yes within that range from about 91 to 98, I think it sat at about 93 degrees C.

What engine oil you using?

motul 300v

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

So yeah your using the very good oils and fluids which is fine.

Other then the radiator flush (which you have done), the only other thing I can suggest you get check out by your mechanic is your water pump... But should be fine still...

If anyone else can recommend anything, please do.

Overall I think you just pushed it quite hard and the harder you push the car the higher the temps go, again normal.

So nothing to worry about.

How about you take your car out tonight when its a lot cooler, give it a bit of a 'fang' and check the temps again... Atmospharic temps can effect the car too.

R33GTRKid Experienced

R33GTRKid

Posted
Posted (edited)

it could be one of the 'cold region' GTR's. My 33 was one also (it actually said it in the FAST details), and I needed to change the thermostat and it brought it right down to running normal at between 78 and 82 degrees, on a fang, up to 85 degrees water.

Not sure about the oil at the moment as my apexi gauge is playing up and reading like 120 to 140 at the moment, but when working properly I never saw it over 90ish. The dash gauge sits at roughly 80 to 90 all the time but does move. (I know the Apexi is messing around because it hits 60 straight away upon start up and about 120 within 5 mins of driving where as the dash gauge has just started to move at that point)

Edited by R33GTRKid
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Just put skinny tyres on it.
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline · Posted

      Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • Piggaz
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By Piggaz · Posted

      You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...