Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i got my motor from the importer he had a apexi power fc for me which came with the motor, which i was pritty happy with.

but the thing is that i only have the computer and the engine loom.

what i am after is the software and a cable so i can plug it into my laptop, for easyer tuning then the hand controler.

but i cant seam to find a place that sells the cable and software.where can i get from?

or if someone can get me a copy of the software on cd.

also were is a good place to get it tunned, in melbourne (RB25DET)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25720-power-fc-software-and-cables/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by clean_vl

when i got my motor from the importer he had a apexi power fc for me which came with the motor, which i was pritty happy with.

but the thing is that i only have the computer and the engine loom.

what i am after is the software and a cable so i can plug it into my laptop, for easyer tuning then the hand controler.

but i cant seam to find a place that sells the cable and software.where can i get from?

or if someone can get me a copy of the software on cd.

also were is a good place to get it tunned, in melbourne (RB25DET)

Theres only 1 place in melbourne that has the pfc software and that is hypertech. And no they will not give you a copy of it as they are the apexi Australia dealer. They use it to tune their customers cars, but i have heard even tho they use a laptop, people like ben from racepace can tune it better just using the hand controller. The guys that work at hypertech are basically computer guys and dont really understand all the aspects of tuning a car properly.

Originally posted by R32-GTS

The FC Edit program is only out for GTR;s at the moment. I'm told the Gts-t software is been made at the moment and should be out soon. So until then its hand controller to tune

hypertech has the software for all model power fc's.

Originally posted by INASNT

Theres only 1 place in melbourne that has the pfc software and that is hypertech. And no they will not give you a copy of it as they are the apexi Australia dealer. They use it to tune their customers cars, but i have heard even tho they use a laptop, people like ben from racepace can tune it better just using the hand controller. The guys that work at hypertech are basically computer guys and dont really understand all the aspects of tuning a car properly.

The only authorised APEXi dealer in Australia is Access Auto Engineering, in Vermont, VIC.

http://www.apexi.co.jp/dealerimg/dealer02.html

I'm going to hazard a guess in that Hypertech has an FC Datalogit, which is just as good as the APEXi written software, as it gives access to all the hidden functions of the PowerFC that you can't get to with the FC Commander.

Disclaimer: I have no basis for the above, and am only going by the fact that APEX and the other Japanese companies don't give out their ECU tuning software to workshops outside of Japan without a fight, especially to lowly APEXi resellers. But as always, I might be wrong, and they might have the original APEXi laptop software, but I seriously doubt it :P

id have to agree with Merli's last paragraph.

they would have to fork out some serious $$$ to get the original programs, or use other software that can be used to tune to pfc - which is probably what most are doing out here

Bloody FC datalogit bloody - how many friggin years do you have to wait!

You can do a good tune off the hand controller, just takes a bit longer.

Bloody good score one the power fc coming with the engine package BTW, probably save 1k+ on having to buy it yourself.

  • 2 weeks later...

Coming in on this one a bit late but thought I'd offer my 2 cents worth. I have had all sorts of dramas getting my GTR tuned properly. I have finally found the guys in Melbourne who know what they are doing. B&M Fuel Systems in Albert St Richmond ( near Duttons ). I am using a PFC. After B&M did their thing the car is completely different. Most of the lag is gone, makes good torque across the rev range and power all the way through to the redline. Drives unbelievably well and fuel economy has improved dramatically! Approx 10 ltrs per hundred on a recent trip to Mildura. The best thing is that these guys are interested in your car after you have paid the bill. They rang me to check how things were going...

My experience was good. THought I'd let you know cos so many of my experiences with "experts" have been bad.

Originally posted by luspy

Coming in on this one a bit late but thought I'd offer my 2 cents worth. I have had all sorts of dramas getting my GTR tuned properly. I have finally found the guys in Melbourne who know what they are doing. B&M Fuel Systems in Albert St Richmond ( near Duttons ). I am using a PFC. After B&M did their thing the car is completely different. Most of the lag is gone, makes good torque across the rev range and power all the way through to the redline. Drives unbelievably well and fuel economy has improved dramatically! Approx 10 ltrs per hundred on a recent trip to Mildura. The best thing is that these guys are interested in your car after you have paid the bill. They rang me to check how things were going...

My experience was good. THought I'd let you know cos so many of my experiences with "experts" have been bad.

If u still have problems take your car to ben at racepace in bayswater, hes knows his GTR's!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...