Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i got my motor from the importer he had a apexi power fc for me which came with the motor, which i was pritty happy with.

but the thing is that i only have the computer and the engine loom.

what i am after is the software and a cable so i can plug it into my laptop, for easyer tuning then the hand controler.

but i cant seam to find a place that sells the cable and software.where can i get from?

or if someone can get me a copy of the software on cd.

also were is a good place to get it tunned, in melbourne (RB25DET)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25720-power-fc-software-and-cables/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by clean_vl

when i got my motor from the importer he had a apexi power fc for me which came with the motor, which i was pritty happy with.

but the thing is that i only have the computer and the engine loom.

what i am after is the software and a cable so i can plug it into my laptop, for easyer tuning then the hand controler.

but i cant seam to find a place that sells the cable and software.where can i get from?

or if someone can get me a copy of the software on cd.

also were is a good place to get it tunned, in melbourne (RB25DET)

Theres only 1 place in melbourne that has the pfc software and that is hypertech. And no they will not give you a copy of it as they are the apexi Australia dealer. They use it to tune their customers cars, but i have heard even tho they use a laptop, people like ben from racepace can tune it better just using the hand controller. The guys that work at hypertech are basically computer guys and dont really understand all the aspects of tuning a car properly.

Originally posted by R32-GTS

The FC Edit program is only out for GTR;s at the moment. I'm told the Gts-t software is been made at the moment and should be out soon. So until then its hand controller to tune

hypertech has the software for all model power fc's.

Originally posted by INASNT

Theres only 1 place in melbourne that has the pfc software and that is hypertech. And no they will not give you a copy of it as they are the apexi Australia dealer. They use it to tune their customers cars, but i have heard even tho they use a laptop, people like ben from racepace can tune it better just using the hand controller. The guys that work at hypertech are basically computer guys and dont really understand all the aspects of tuning a car properly.

The only authorised APEXi dealer in Australia is Access Auto Engineering, in Vermont, VIC.

http://www.apexi.co.jp/dealerimg/dealer02.html

I'm going to hazard a guess in that Hypertech has an FC Datalogit, which is just as good as the APEXi written software, as it gives access to all the hidden functions of the PowerFC that you can't get to with the FC Commander.

Disclaimer: I have no basis for the above, and am only going by the fact that APEX and the other Japanese companies don't give out their ECU tuning software to workshops outside of Japan without a fight, especially to lowly APEXi resellers. But as always, I might be wrong, and they might have the original APEXi laptop software, but I seriously doubt it :P

id have to agree with Merli's last paragraph.

they would have to fork out some serious $$$ to get the original programs, or use other software that can be used to tune to pfc - which is probably what most are doing out here

Bloody FC datalogit bloody - how many friggin years do you have to wait!

You can do a good tune off the hand controller, just takes a bit longer.

Bloody good score one the power fc coming with the engine package BTW, probably save 1k+ on having to buy it yourself.

  • 2 weeks later...

Coming in on this one a bit late but thought I'd offer my 2 cents worth. I have had all sorts of dramas getting my GTR tuned properly. I have finally found the guys in Melbourne who know what they are doing. B&M Fuel Systems in Albert St Richmond ( near Duttons ). I am using a PFC. After B&M did their thing the car is completely different. Most of the lag is gone, makes good torque across the rev range and power all the way through to the redline. Drives unbelievably well and fuel economy has improved dramatically! Approx 10 ltrs per hundred on a recent trip to Mildura. The best thing is that these guys are interested in your car after you have paid the bill. They rang me to check how things were going...

My experience was good. THought I'd let you know cos so many of my experiences with "experts" have been bad.

Originally posted by luspy

Coming in on this one a bit late but thought I'd offer my 2 cents worth. I have had all sorts of dramas getting my GTR tuned properly. I have finally found the guys in Melbourne who know what they are doing. B&M Fuel Systems in Albert St Richmond ( near Duttons ). I am using a PFC. After B&M did their thing the car is completely different. Most of the lag is gone, makes good torque across the rev range and power all the way through to the redline. Drives unbelievably well and fuel economy has improved dramatically! Approx 10 ltrs per hundred on a recent trip to Mildura. The best thing is that these guys are interested in your car after you have paid the bill. They rang me to check how things were going...

My experience was good. THought I'd let you know cos so many of my experiences with "experts" have been bad.

If u still have problems take your car to ben at racepace in bayswater, hes knows his GTR's!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...