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Are DR30 struts different to MR30?

(I want to get another set of struts to have cut up to make coilovers)

The DR struts have a different mount for the calliper, it's 100 mm (4 inch) centre to centre and make allowance for the bigger diameter brake rotor where the HR, MR are 3.5 inches.

Other than that they're both the same.

If your going that way, look at R31's as they are shorter to begin with and easier for lowering.

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Hey guys, long time since ive been on here, been having computer issues :D

On the brakes thing, ive attached a pic of R31 brakes, may be usefull to someone ;)

Ive had a few issues with my car, bought a brand new clutch a month or so back as some of you may know, 6 puk ceramic from extreme in adelaide and the plate split in 2 weeks, not happy, so i bought a 2nd hand 3 puk brass button plate put it in but it doesnt grip at all. gbox has to come out again, just purchased a TJ Twin plate, hopefully this one will work. Picked up an R200 mechanical long nose LSD at a bargin price, with axels, housing the works but unfortunatly its a 3.9 ratio, i was looking for a 4.4 or 4.6. Also got a k-mac swaybar for beans. Unfortunatly i cut the back of my hand and severed the tendons last week and had plastic surgury so no car for a few months ;)

This gave me some time to knock up a vector DR30, ive attached a pic, Ghostrider this could be usefull for a tshirt :D

what your asking is will the dr callipars bolt onto the r31 strut?

if this is the case then, anyone know the difference in rotor size from a hr30 and the r31 and if there the callipars are better?

Both are 250 dia. but offsets change a little.

My electric HR struts that I took out had hub type discs on them, the rotor was part of the hub with the studs in it, similar to HQ holden. As opposed to our R30, DR30 that the rotor bolts to the back of the hub.

If your going to get the DR struts made up for coilovers, it might be worth investigating the possibility of cutting them down (length) and recutting the inside thread to allow the use of R31 inserts. After all, you have to get the spring seats removed.

Hey guys, long time since ive been on here, been having computer issues :D

On the brakes thing, ive attached a pic of R31 brakes, may be usefull to someone :)

Ive had a few issues with my car, bought a brand new clutch a month or so back as some of you may know, 6 puk ceramic from extreme in adelaide and the plate split in 2 weeks, not happy, so i bought a 2nd hand 3 puk brass button plate put it in but it doesnt grip at all. gbox has to come out again, just purchased a TJ Twin plate, hopefully this one will work. Picked up an R200 mechanical long nose LSD at a bargin price, with axels, housing the works but unfortunatly its a 3.9 ratio, i was looking for a 4.4 or 4.6. Also got a k-mac swaybar for beans. Unfortunatly i cut the back of my hand and severed the tendons last week and had plastic surgury so no car for a few months :)

This gave me some time to knock up a vector DR30, ive attached a pic, Ghostrider this could be usefull for a tshirt :)

Crimmo,

Why you want 4.6, you want to accelerate up telegraph poles? 4.3 I can understand, but hard to find, I have been looking for yonks, even open are hard to find. Try finding a 9 tooth pinion and make your own 4.3 with the 3.9 crown wheel.

What thickness is the K Mac bar standard?

Sorry to hear about your hand & I might be able to use your vector.

Thanks.

Picked up an R200 mechanical long nose LSD at a bargin price, with axels, housing the works but unfortunatly its a 3.9 ratio, i was looking for a 4.4 or 4.6.

Hey.....I dont know wherether ur lsd hat will fit, but if u get the front diff from a Datsun720 4X4 it is a 4.8.........only prob is, its a r180....but it is a heavy duty one tho as it came from the 4x4.......i used to use one of these in my 1600 burnout/drag/street car.......very tuff diff. i have vids of my car doing a 270 m burnout . won the comp with that one....i miss the old girl :D

I wanted to use DR30 struts because I already have adjustable KYB dampers

On the issue of brakes, I swear my car has 10 or 10.5 inch front discs and 11 inch rears... that is normal right? (I didnt take the wheels off, just roughly measured through the watanabes, I think the front are 10.5)

I wanted to use DR30 struts because I already have adjustable KYB dampers

On the issue of brakes, I swear my car has 10 or 10.5 inch front discs and 11 inch rears... that is normal right?  (I didnt take the wheels off, just roughly measured through the watanabes, I think the front are 10.5)

That's right, or near enough 274 front (10.8 inches) and 290 rear (11.4 inches)

Ah k.... just thought it was weird that the fronts were smaller, wasnt sure if maybe when i had the rotors skimmed they had nicked my brakes and fitted MR or HR ones

No! you have genuine DR brakes, it's just that the fronts are ventilated x 22mm & rears are solid x 10 and the front pads are HUGE in comparison to rears.

Change your pads to EBC, or Endless or similar and you will be surprised at the improvement.

It had metallic race pads in it before (thats why my rotors were chewed out) and it now had EBC Green Stuff pads I think... just needs new rotors, but I wanna find out about strut and brake swaps before I buy new rotors... Though really I should just get them

I'm not a big brakes fan, I prefer to use engine braking whenever possible or to back off just a little sooner

It had metallic race pads in it before (thats why my rotors were chewed out) and it now had EBC Green Stuff pads I think... just needs new rotors, but I wanna find out about strut and brake swaps before I buy new rotors... Though really I should just get them

I'm not a big brakes fan, I prefer to use engine braking whenever possible or to back off just a little sooner

Adam,

If your not chasing monster HP and keeping your FJ relatively stock, then what you have is more than adequate. Just put Green Stuff on the front and Black on the rear. The good thing with EBC, it's relatively easy to get and being Kevlar based, it's very user/disc friendly.

I am only going to BNR32 GTR spec front brakes because I intend using it for super sprints at some point. As for pads I will use the same EBC's as I suggested above for normal road use, but for track I will upgrade to red fronts and get greens made for rear. Maybe Yellow & red combo, but then have to get both F & R made to order.

Rotors: Shop around, there is some good ones coming in from o/seas now, slotted, but don't buy drilled, they can't handle extreme heat and CRACK. At all costs, stay away from DBA, if at all possible. They put a small notice inside the boxes, "not warranted under race conditions" unless you buy GOLD and they aren't available for DR sizes.

Also remember if they can't be found in listings as DR, they are identical to Z31 300ZX rotors.

Stuts: Get someone to shorten the DR struts to accept R31 front inserts IF YOU INTEND LOWERING, as they're about 30mm shorter so piston travel doesn't become an issue.

Mine will be sprinted so I'm half thinking that I might need to upgrade

Yeah, maybe I'll just get the struts chopped and get some slightly lower springs made and run some new R31 Monroes or something, I really don't want to spend $$$ on more shocks

Do the Z31's run the same struts as DR's? I'd like to modify a second set so that if I get done for having height adjustable suspension and they want me to weld it up then I can put the standard struts back in

Mine will be sprinted so I'm half thinking that I might need to upgrade

Yeah, maybe I'll just get the struts chopped and get some slightly lower springs made and run some new R31 Monroes or something, I really don't want to spend $$$ on more shocks

Do the Z31's run the same struts as DR's?  I'd like to modify a second set so that if I get done for having height adjustable suspension and they want me to weld it up then I can put the standard struts back in

If your interested, I just stumbled across a genuine HKS Power FC 2nd hand to suit FJ20DET DR30 on ebay Japan/USA. Location Tokyo ends in 20 mins

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