Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If this has already been discussed can someone please point me to it as I cant find any info..

Im about to revert back to a t3 flange turbo from going down the td05 path and need to eigther buy a stock unmodifed manifold for my rb20 or get one of these cheap $350NZD ones (not spending thousands on a flash one) to accomodate for it..

looking for around 250kw+ atw with the new turbo just need some helpful advice on weather id see any gains with manifolds like these or just go for stock again:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-203672556.htm

Dont care about the cosmetic appeal, turbo will most likely be gt3040 so opinions on top vs side mount am keen to hear any clearance issues etc..

thanks in advance.

Thing with those cheap manifolds is some work and some don't, some of them can make the turbo hit the bonnet or make the turbo push up against the rocker cover stopping it from fitting properly.

However friend has one on his RB20DET and it works fine, so just luck of the draw really.

Also, stay away from these manifolds -

73245055_full.jpg

They give no performance gains and without extra reinforcing they crack very easy.

Use the stock manifold. 250rwkw is nothing to ask from one of those. In fact they are better than aftermarket options in many ways.

I'm not going to get into a debate with other people on here about the pros and cons of cast vs steam pipe or stainless and short runner vs tuned length but I can tell you the stock manifold will have no flow restriction at those power levels and you will not notice any real improvement from merge collector designs on smaller power outputs.

Use the stock manifold. 250rwkw is nothing to ask from one of those. In fact they are better than aftermarket options in many ways.

I'm not going to get into a debate with other people on here about the pros and cons of cast vs steam pipe or stainless and short runner vs tuned length but I can tell you the stock manifold will have no flow restriction at those power levels and you will not notice any real improvement from merge collector designs on smaller power outputs.

yeah I have heard good things about the stock manifolds.. but what about the clearance mounting a gt3040 onto it? I shouldnt run into any issues should I?

but why do you want to use a GT3040 to get 250kw? a GT3071 or GT3076 is much better suited to the application and doesn't have the extra lag.

yeah true TiTAN, 250kw was basically the figure I wanted to get to but ill take anything over that 260, 270 who knows.. After going over the dyno results page it appears every gt3040 has easily over 250kw .. but having said that, most if not all of them have had bottom end work done, I on the other hand have not.. Id like to see more dyno printouts with the 3076 on an rb20 but have only seen one result at present, making 227kw if i recall but no printout.. I almost made that with the TD05, just dont want to run the risk of spending heaps on a new flash turbo if it isnt going to give me the peak output power im after. How much more lag are we talking about after all? I really have no idea how much sooner the 3076 will come on boost or weather I can gauruntee itll put me in the 250+ area

GT3040 or whatever is 600hp worth of turbo in its biggest form.

Thats over 300rwkw.

If you do not want that, and only want 260rwkw, get a 450-500hp item thats better suited to the job

I had a DSR one on my Skyline when I went GT30R and it ended up cracking - I got rid of the DSR manifold and have put a stock one back on and can't say I have noticed any difference though will have to hit the dyno at some point to confirm. I obviously prefer the stock manifold given it doesn't fall apart haha

sounds like ill be sticking with the stock option for now ... i find it crazy that these aftermarket ones can crack, I suppose its to do with them expanding and contracting all the time.. found another stock manifold for $75NZD hell of a lot cheaper than a dud aftermarket one..

Thing with those cheap manifolds is some work and some don't, some of them can make the turbo hit the bonnet or make the turbo push up against the rocker cover stopping it from fitting properly.

However friend has one on his RB20DET and it works fine, so just luck of the draw really.

Also, stay away from these manifolds -

73245055_full.jpg

They give no performance gains and without extra reinforcing they crack very easy.

Yeah these really do not like the heat cycling on a street car. If it was proper grade stainless it might work fine. And the weld at the collector seems to let go and burn the bonnet :thumbsup:

Yeah these really do not like the heat cycling on a street car. If it was proper grade stainless it might work fine. And the weld at the collector seems to let go and burn the bonnet ;)

Haha yeah I wonder where you've seen that :)

Redline performance sell a pretty cheap low mount manifold, one of which a guy I know of has used on his RB20DET powered S13 that goes VERY well (its running an EVO TD05 - its the same running gear from ADIDAN's R32 GTSt which was later crashed, Vanilla Rice) and that seems to work quite well, again unfortunately no dyno results yet but one thing I like about it is it happens to resemble little sketches I had been drawing and sending to people who can fabricate (alas I lack such skills) asking if it were feasable to make up, and if it would work.

Its essentially has two 3>1 headers and then 2>1 at the flange allowing something resembling proper collectors to be made up unlike most cheap low mount manifolds. It has the "tubular exhaust manifold" sound and feel to it and certainly hasn't lost anything over the stock manifold and most importantly hasn't cracked yet despite being street driven and run at 20psi so it could be promising. I have been watching with interest for a while.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...