Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

This is my first time browsing through this part of the forum. (but I did search my problem with not many results)

for about 6 months now my clutch pedal has had a slight sqeak, only occasionally and not very loud at all, so I'm not really that worried about that.

however, a few months ago my exedy cushion button clutch(or atleast I think it is the clutch) began squeaking whenever I am not in gear or my foot is not pushing/resting on the clutch pedal a little. Its Absolutly fine apart from that. I put my head down there and when I push the pedal in a cm or so, the sqealing stops, but the sound is defintetly coming from outside the cabin and is a fast sqeaky sound.

I don't drop the clutch or do silly things and so far the clutch has never slipt.

Just one thing to note: the car started out as a non turbo and now has ~230rwkw so perhaps some of the original factory components cant take the extra power?

Its really starting to annoy me now so please help! I also can make a recording and post it up if you guys want to hear.

Thanks heaps,

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258427-sqeaky-clutchclutch-pedal/
Share on other sites

The noise that goes away when you put your foot oin the clutch sounds like your clutch release bearing, it is a box out job to fix

the squeek from the pedal itself could be a cracked pedal box or where the return spring fits into the pedal box there is a white plastic insert that cracks it isnt a major problem wouldnt be much fun to fix but you would have to pull the pedal box and then source the little plastic insert there are 2 of them and each end of the spring goes through holes in the pedal box the inserts go in the holes inbetween the spring and the holes in the box

Thanks for the info.

Am really disappointed I have to take out my whole gearbox just to fix the clutch sound... as said the clutch pedal isnt as bigger deal, but handy to know...

How hard is it to remove the whole gearbox and do the bearing and the price of parts?

Thanks heaps.

Adam

Soo its not as hard as I think to take out a gbox then ??

Nah mate. Me and PaYbAcK dropped a 32Gts-t and a 32Gts-4 (slightly harder - AWD) box and changed the clutches in 4 hours.

Disconnect the shifter, drop the tailshaft, drop the slave, undo the bell housing bolts, undo crossmember bolts, and hey presto - a gearbox.

Recommend a mate, 4 axle stands, and a decent trolley jack.

Or put up with it as much as you can, then get it fixed by a gearbox/clutch mechanic and get your flywheel/clutch/bolts upgraded at the same time as the labour cost wont be much more than just fixing the squeek.

Removing and replacing a gearbox isnt that hard if you have some mechanical background but if your not sure what your doing find some one to help you who does cause the last thing you want to do is f**k it up and turn a couple of hour job into something more expensive.

Not saying a newbie couldnt pull it off just saying it helps to have some one there who can help you dodge the pitfalls

Then also weigh up the cost of what if you round a bolt, break a part or a tool and cant get it back together, how much mucking around you will have to do towing it to your mechanic or getting a lift to work etc for a couple of days.

Or drop it off at your mechanic in the morning, pick it up at lunchtime and pay a few hundred knowing as you drive out that its all done and your hands didnt even get dirty.

Before you take the g/box out check that the clutch fork pivot ball is not dry (lacking grease) Mine was and felt rough and was squeaking. I removed the fork dust cover and managed to grease the pivot ball with a small grease gun that has a long thin probe. That was two years ago and it still fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...